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Clinique’s “pioneering” new launch |
UK. Clinique unveiled what it described as a “pioneering new skincare launch” yesterday, at Il Bottaccio, in London. Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, which targets hyperpigmentation, is said to offer prescription strength effectiveness at evening skin tone – a first for such a premium cosmetics brand.
Clinique UK & Ireland General Manager Janet Saunders kicked off the proceedings, by describing Clinique’s latest skincare offering as a “pioneering new launch”.
“Our success over the past year has been driven by a number of factors,” she noted, “including some innovative new product launches, and also some great performances from the existing portfolio, especially 3 Step.”
She continued: “We have also realised and acknowledged that the economic downturn has led to changes in the attitudes and needs of our consumer, and therefore we have adapted our plans and strategies accordingly, to deliver what our consumer wants today.
“At Clinique we continue to focus on our heritage and key points of difference: allergy tested, 100% fragrance-free and dermatologist developed. And it is with these core values in mind that we are here today to talk about one of the fastest-growing skincare concerns: hyperpigmentation, which affects millions of people around the globe”¦and is considered to be one of the newest and most significant signs of premature ageing.”
Saunders concluded: “We at Clinique have challenged ourselves to become a leader in addressing hyperpigmentation – an often difficult-to-treat skincare concern. Today, we believe we have something truly groundbreaking to show you, which will deliver on its promises.”
Vice President Clinique Product Development Worldwide Debbie D’Aquino told journalists how proud she was to be able to share the brand’s “breakthrough technology” in the field of hyperpigmentation. “This is not only a breakthrough for Clinique, it’s a breakthrough for the industry,” she declared.
D’Aquino underlined how widespread a problem hyperpigmentation is – and how desperate consumers all over the world are to find a product that can help improve it. The target market, she concluded, is huge.
“Consumer research tells us (hyperpigmentation) is the top skin concern for millions of Americans and woman globally,” D’Aquino revealed. “We know that in France 82% of women use products that provide clearer, brighter skin. In Italy, it’s 95%; in Russia, it’s 97%. In the US, brightening is cited as the fastest-growing segment in skincare, ahead of anti-ageing, which is now number two. And in the Middle East and India, brightening now represents 67% of total skincare.”
“This is not only a breakthrough for Clinique, it’s a breakthrough for the industry“ |
Vice President Clinique Product Development Worldwide Debbie D’Aquino |
Senior Vice President Basic Science Research Estée Lauder Companies Dr Daniel Yarosh explained more about the causes of hyperpigmentation. “It is caused by an excess of melanin, the pigment in the skin that’s responsible for colour,” he noted. “Exposure to sunlight, pollution, the response to inflammation such as acne, or simple age – an individual’s genes – can all contribute to the development of dark spots and uneven skin tone. It affects people of all ethnicities and all age groups.”
The current “gold standard” prescription treatment for hyperpigmentation is 4% hydroquinone, available only when prescribed by a doctor. Clinical tests have proved the performance of Clinique’s Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector to be comparable to hydroquinone at four, eight and 12 weeks for evening skin tone- and without any unpleasant side effects such as irritation, dryness or redness.
This is due largely to the key ingredient, which is found within the Dianella Ensifolia plant, which originates in southeast Asia. This in turn forms part of Clinique’s patent-pending CL-302 complex, which features five synergistic brightening ingredients.
“We searched the world for ingredients, and eventually, in partnership with the Kobe Skin Research Institute in Japan, we have developed and validated a new botanical complex clinically proven to provide prescription level results,” claimed Yarosh.
“Clinique is the first to use this molecule in cosmetic products. Because of its extraordinary antioxidant properties, it is the most powerful inhibitor of pigment synthesis we have ever seen.”
“Clinique is the first to use this [Dianella Ensifolia] molecule in cosmetic products. Because of its extraordinary antioxidant properties, it is the most powerful inhibitor of pigment synthesis we have ever seen“ |
Senior Vice President Basic Science Research Estée Lauder Companies Dr Daniel Yarosh |
But it doesn’t work alone. As hyperpigmentation is a multi-step process, Clinique Executive Director Research & Development Dr Paolo Giacomoni explained how Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector incorporates a multi-pronged approach to the problem.
“We have selected five ingredients (for the CL-302 complex),” he noted. “In addition to Dianella Ensifolia there is ascorbic glucoside, which is a very stable form of vitamin C, also very important in terms of fading dark spots.
“The third ingredient is blackout yeast, which contains enzymes that digest excess melanin. Lastly, we have salicylic acid and glucosamine for exfoliation, which helps to normalise cell turnover and assist the departure of surface pigmented skin cells.”
With consistent use twice a day, results will be visible within four weeks, Clinique maintains. Clinical tests revealed between a 42% and 46% improvement in evening skin tone amongst all four ethnicities tested. Other results are said to include immediate improvement in clarity and brightness.
“As a scientist, I am incredibly proud of this new groundbreaking formula and the team’s hard work and dedication in accomplishing our goal,” concluded Yarosh.
Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector will begin rolling out in global travel retail from April. It will be available as a 30ml, and priced domestically at around €58. It complements the existing Even Better collection, which comprises Even Better Skin Tone Correcting Moisturizer SPF20 and Even Better Makeup SPF15.
TALKING WITH THE TRINITY
Hyperpigmentation seems to have emerged almost out of nowhere to become a major skin concern, but is there actually an increasing number of women (and men) who are worried about it – or only a rising awareness of it?
“In the US and I think western Europe, the sun-worshipping trend has changed, and there’s a younger demographic, say women in their 30s, who are recognising the damage that has been done and are now very concerned about pigmentation changes,” Yarosh told The Moodie Report during an exclusive joint interview with colleagues D’Aquino and Giacomoni.
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| Clinique’s trio of skincare experts: (left to right) Dr Daniel Yarosh, Debbie D’Aquino and Dr Paolo Giacomoni | ||
“That’s true of Caucasian women, black woman, and Asian women. And in the developing countries, China and India, it’s always been a concern. But I think now that (hyperpigmentation) is universally recognised as a sign of ageing. This isn’t just an issue of a brown spot here or there.”
D’Aquino agrees. “A big influence has been the baby boomers. There are so many men and woman of a certain age that are doing their best to try and not look their age. They have been concerned about lines and wrinkles for decades, but now there’s a new revelation, there’s something else going on. And the less you tan, the paler your skin, the more this sort of discolouration shows.”
Initially, many consumers – particularly westerners – were reluctant to embrace whitening/brightening products, fearful that they would somehow “˜bleach’ their skin and make them look too pale. Is there now a better understanding of what such treatments can achieve?
“It’s about evenness, not about being pale,” emphasised Yarosh. “We talk a lot about (age) spots but evenness of skin tone is really the goal.”
“It’s all about bringing skin back to its natural state, its natural colour,” added D’Aquino. “Women are getting more comfortable with recognising they need to get their skin in better condition. And ultimately you can’t tan and still have healthy skin. That above all has to be globally understood – a tan is damage.”
And Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector is all about minimising damage. Yarosh and his team are particularly proud of having created a product with prescription strength effectiveness, but none of the irritating side effects such prescriptions can trigger. It’s a difficult balance to achieve.
“We have a long history of studying anti-inflammatories and that’s a key advantage we have over prescription products, which are by and large just one chemical in a formula,” Yarosh explained.
“Also, our key antioxidant is very specific, which in combination with our anti-inflammatories, ensures it is not irritating.”
D’Aquino noted: “We sometimes talk about applying the gas and the brake at the same time. And we are fortunate to have a very talented group of research scientists, who know how to give consumers enough performance without causing the skin to react negatively.”
The inclusion of salicylic acid is also important in this respect, interjected Giacomoni. “This is simply one of the best anti-inflammatory agents we have.”
Clinique has big plans for its Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector. While this new formulation is suitable for use on other parts of the body aside from the face, the brand is already considering dedicated body and/or hand products that utilise this technology.
“It is a huge opportunity for the brand,” confirmed D’Aquino. “Strategically we are looking to formulate something for hand and body use. We will most probably add an SPF too, for maximum effectiveness.”
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