Bally borrows from the boys in autumnal accessories collection

Left: Papillon tote bag; Right: Portfolio size Camera bag

Bally’s 162-year obsession with leather is the centerpiece of the Autumn/Winter 2013 women’s collection.

The collection comprises “subtly boyish” footwear, accessories and “luxuriously accessible” ready-to-wear, as Creative Directors Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler were inspired by links to the 1940s and 1950s in the Bally archive, the company said.

Inspiration comes from the life and work of photojournalist Lee Miller, whose acclaimed journeys led her from reporting for Vogue in war-torn Europe to glamorous St Moritz in the 1950s.

“This adventurous spirit penetrates the soul of the entire collection,” Bally said. From the three main shoe categories – “˜Borrowed from the Boys’, “˜Urban Allure’ and “˜Chic Après-Ski’ – to the accessories and ready-to-wear, the mood is described as a seamless transition from the city to the Alps, using superior leathers, suedes and furs.

Modern feminine cuts are juxtaposed with boyish shapes and a sophisticated material mix, collaged together for a graphic effect.

In the accessories collection, attention is given to the camera bag as a re-engineered piece inspired by Lee Miller’s own traditional photo bags from the 1940s. Modelled in vegetan calfskin, featuring snap lock closure and secret pockets, the Camera Bag line is showcased as a capsule collection of four bags. In addition to the Classic version, the other size variations are the Overnight, the Portfolio and the Mini.

The seasonal palette takes its cue from the Swiss landscape. Dominated by natural, earthy shades, colours include bark, light fawn, white, loden and black, complemented with dual-tone variations of burnished brown/black, black/white and burnished brown/white.

Women’s shoes

Borrowed From the Boys: A new capsule collection of women’s footwear inspired by men’s classics, re-interpreted from models found in Bally’s archive from the 1940s and 50s. Goodyear welt construction is featured on three styles: classic Oxford brogues in flat or 50mm heels in black, brown or two-tone black/white; double monk slip-ons in hand-coloured box calf; and suede moccasins with woven detail.

Bally’s brogueing technique features in other boyish styles such as stacked heel platform pumps and bow front pumps with Bally grip moulded lug soles. The women’s Chelsea boot has also been given a masculine treatment in plain natural leather or two-tone lace-up brogue styles.

Urban Allure: A sophisticated, city-inspired range of shoes has been inspired by the elegant style of the 20th Century photojournalist Lee Miller. Re-interpreted through Bally’s contemporary lens, the collection’s laid back attitude is a direct reflection of the style heroine’s adventurous spirit and the chic elegance of the 1940s. Classic T-straps, curved vintage heels, pointed toes, stiletto sandals and folded leather bows have all been updated from Bally’s archive for a modern look.

A subtle mélange of complementary materials, including suede and contrasting leathers, have been re-imagined in magnified shapes and oversized details discovered in the Bally archive. Crafted styles are offered as pointed-toe pumps and high-heeled strappy sandals. The seasonal boot is crafted from luxurious nappa and features a distinctive chiselled toe and wooden heel. Both ankle and long styles are detailed with hand-stitched straps that wrap around suede ankle inserts.

Chic Après-Ski: Bally’s year-long celebration to mark the 60th anniversary of the historic first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 finds it place in a collection of Alpine-inspired women’s boots. Trimmed in luxurious marmot fur or mink and constructed with feminine wedge heels, the winter boots have been crafted to resemble shearling coats for the feet.

Left: Borrowed From the Boys Lace-up ankle boots; Right: Urban Allure stiletto sandals

Women’s accessories

Seasonal accessories, made from fine saddle-soft leathers, use a natural tanning process. Bally’s vegetan natural calf leather accessories are characterised by their simple lines. The silhouettes are both rigidly structured – as the camera bag capsule collection – or more softly constructed in fresh style variations that include a retro tube bag, a mini zip-top bag, a briefcase, a backpack and a drawstring bucket bag.

Overall, details are subtle. The hardware is dubbed “rich but discreet”. Engineered roller buckles, vintage-inspired snap lock closure and topstitching taken from Bally footwear is hand-finished with a heavy thread.

The accessories are referenced in a seasonal palette dominated by soft, neutral colours such as loden and bark, and striking dual-tone black and white.

The Camera Bag: Inspired by Lee Miller’s own photography bags, Bally offers a new take on this design classic by introducing the camera bag. Crafted from calfskin and featuring a snap lock closure, the classic size camera bag is offered in a neutral bleached exterior that contrasts with a rich suede interior. Features include a flip-top pocket that operates like a mini car glove compartment to store smartphones, while the internal pocket originally used to carry rolls of film has been restructured to house an iPad.

Based on the Classic, three other styles are offered as a capsule collection: the Overnight, the Portfolio and the Mini. The Overnight style incorporates a functional suede shoe pouch with a snap cover while the other styles include suede shoe bags.

Papillon Totes and Clutches: Originally introduced for Spring/Summer 2013, the Papillon range of bags was inspired by intricate details from the 1930s found in Bally’s archive. Updated in statement black, white or black and white, the highly stylised Papillon collection is offered in tactile calf leather characterised by the fine ribbon detail of cut leather work.

Women’s ready-to-wear

Bally’s collection of ready-to-wear is focused on versatile and luxury leather outerwear that features a mix of complex techniques and fine materials. Re-interpreted classic styles, re-engineered leathers, elegant fur details and embellishments are all combined for a sophisticated winter look.

Items include: a cropped bark-coloured shearling coat with nubuck panels and a ribbed cashmere collar; a hooded white mink jacket with white leather ribbing and hand-finished press studs; and a luxury shearling mountain coat with a fox fur collar.

Softly flowing capes in sleek grey shearling or cashmere are trimmed in hand-woven braided leather; and a three-quarter length white mink coat is sliced with soft plongé black nappa leather for dramatic effect.

Trousers are offered in butter soft suede, silk or Prince of Wales tweed. Jumbo knit turtlenecks and luxurious outerwear contrast against a streamlined lower silhouette. A sleek cashmere suede jumpsuit is the collection masterpiece for après-ski, the company said.

The seasonal palette is earthy and natural, as bark, light fawn, white, loden and black dominate the predominantly monochrome collection.

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