Estée Lauder aims to lure new consumers with lipstick Envy

As previously reported, Estée Lauder unveiled its new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick in London last week (21 November). The collection – positioned as a new flagship line designed to infuse an element of youthfulness and modernity into the brand’s colour cosmetics offer – will be introduced to travel retail doors in Europe, the Middle East, Africa and the Americas from February 2014.

The line was showcased during an informative presentation delivered by Estée Lauder & Tom Ford Beauty Senior Vice President, Global Product Development Anne Carullo, and Estée Lauder Director, Global Makeup Artistry Blair Patterson. The event concluded with a group interview with the lipstick face, supermodel Carolyn Murphy.

Carolyn Murphy is the face of Estée Lauder’s flagship new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick

Described by Carullo as “a lipstick like no other”, Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick is claimed to sculpt lips with high-intensity, moisturising colour that stays true for up to six hours.

Inspired by modern architecture, the lipstick is presented in sleek new packaging – Estée Lauder’s first new lipstick case since 1992. The colour scheme echoes the brand’s signature navy and gold livery. The packaging features a practical magnetic closure.

“This is more than just a product launch, this is a rebirth of a brand,” declares Carullo. “[Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick] will allow us to introduce the phenomenal Estée Lauder brand to a whole new generation of consumers – both young and older.”

She continues: “We are targeting a new generation, more used to lip gloss, which is discovering lipstick for the first time. We are trying to de-myth the concept that lipstick is a time-consuming, old-fashioned, “˜old lady’ thing to do.”

The launch dovetails with the Estée Lauder brand’s broader modernisation drive, as embodied – in fragrance terms – by the introduction earlier this year of the house’s latest signature feminine scent, Modern Muse.

“Modern Muse is a great example of [Estée Lauder Global Brand President] Jane Hudis’s vision of taking the brand to a new level of modernity and relevance,” Carullo notes. “It’s all about infusing new levels of energy and vibrancy into a brand with phenomenal longevity. Modern Muse showed we had a new voice. There will be many more such gestures.”

Starting, in make-up terms, with Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick. “There is nothing more iconic and transformative than a lipstick, in terms of changing the perspective of a brand,” Carullo agrees.

“Plenty of people have Estée Lauder in their lives already, but perhaps have not considered the brand from a make-up standpoint. We’ve got skin care covered, and Modern Muse [blazing a new trail in fragrance]. Now we are using this lipstick launch to redefine the brand’s identity in the colour arena.”

Harnessing the Sensorium effect
Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick took two years to create. To discover exactly what consumers wanted from a lipstick, Lauder first organised an international Sensorium (an initiative that was previously harnessed to aid the development of the brand’s Invisible Fluid Makeup foundation, introduced in 2012).

The Lipstick Sensorium alone took six months. It involved “˜blind’ testings of leading lipsticks, and one-to-one interviews with consumers in Italy, Paris, Spain, North America, China, Korea and Japan.

The new lipstick line was showcased in London on 21 November

“When you remove branding from the decision-making process, it’s a great neutraliser,” Carullo observes. “What we discovered was amazing. When you take away certain elements that people use a lipstick for, such as status, the things they respond to are quite different. Which is important, as it’s not easy getting consumers to tell you the truth. They tend to say one thing but actually mean another.”

She continues: “The Sensorium allowed us to find out what women really want from a lipstick. They want it to be creamy; to have great colour projection; to be long lasting; and to have a nice shine. That might sound simple enough, but from a formulation standpoint, those four things are simply not compatible”¦but it started our development process in a totally different way.”

The result, Carullo maintains, is an entirely new type of formulation, that does manage to tick all the key boxes (although a different, more sheer version of the formula has been created for Asia, in line with current consumer preferences).

The lipstick’s sculpting credentials are courtesy of a new-generation wax that lends a crayon-like strength to the structure. That strength is then wrapped in softness, thanks to the brand’s new and exclusive Time Release Encapsulated Moisture Complex with Hyaluronic Acid, said to help boost lips’ ability to attract, capture and seal in continuous hydration. Special diamond-like pigments deliver the illusion of shine.

The overall effect, according to Lauder, is a lipstick that is fast and easy to apply, and achieves comprehensive coverage without the need for lip liner, primer, powder or gloss. “It’s extremely modern and completely unique,” comments Carullo.

Those qualities are echoed in the packaging, acknowledged by Lauder as an extremely important part of the mix. “The Sensorium taught me that,” confirms Carullo. “For consumers, a lipstick case can be so iconic – and just like a bag or a shoe, is regarded as a key accessory to an outfit. That’s why we worked equally hard on the packaging. It’s our first new lipstick case for more than 20 years, so we wanted that too to have something meaningful to say.”

Road-testing the red
The new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick has already been through the toughest of road tests, courtesy of Estée Lauder Director, Global Makeup Artistry Blair Patterson.

His remit includes extensive travel, to identify new upcoming trends and to educate the brand’s top make-up artists worldwide. During New York and Paris Fashion Weeks, Patterson works closely with Estée Lauder Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux. In addition, both men work with brand spokesmodels Liu Wen, Constance Jablonski, Joan Smalls, Arizona Muse and Hilary Rhoda for all major photo and video shoots, press announcements and tours to promote Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Makeup around the world.

“I used the new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick on Carolyn during the 14-hour campaign shoot,” Patterson reveals. “To achieve that look – to create a red lip that sculpted – with no liner, powder, primer, top coat or brush, is just amazing. The formulation hugs the lips. And at the end of the shoot, Carolyn’s lips were fine, with absolutely no dryness – and only minimal touch-ups needed throughout.”

Anne Carullo and Blair Patterson demonstrate their hands-on approach at the launch

He adds: “You have to remember we make consumer products, which I need to use in the professional arena. That isn’t always easy – but this lipstick resonates. I absolutely think we have a win.”

Patterson explained how important technology and texture are for make-up artists, given the market’s emerging trends and techniques. “Forecasting and identifying trends is a big part of my role,” he notes, “and the ombre lip (also known as the baby or popsicle lip) is a big trend for Spring 2014, especially in Asia. It involves a darker shade on the outside of lips, with a lighter shade inside. The new Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick is ideal for creating effects like this.”

Both Patterson and Carullo praised the tightly edited shade palette. There are 20 shades in total, featuring four colour families: Nudes to Browns, Pinks to Berries, Corals to Reds and Mauves to Plums.

“The reality is you don’t need a lot of shades – just the right ones,” Carullo maintains. “Most women have six, seven lipsticks, and they’re almost all the same colour.”

“Shades that don’t move kill an entire line,” Patterson observes. “I’m so happy with this palette. It won’t overwhelm the consumer with too much choice, but still has every colour they need.”

Murphy’s lore
The face of Pure Color Envy Sculpting Lipstick is model Carolyn Murphy, an Estée Lauder face since 2001. At the launch event she is dressed in a form-fitting black leather dress, accessorised with Christian Louboutin heels, red nails, and a rocking red lip.

Nonetheless, she describes her personal style as very simple and laid-back. “When I’m not working, I don’t wear a lot of make-up,” she cheerfully admits. “But when I do wear it, it’s my way of dressing up. And there’s nothing more classic than a red lip. Today I’m wearing Impassioned and tonight I’ll switch to Envious (a deeper red) as it’s a little more bold.”

She continues: “But what makes this lipstick special is the texture. I’ve worn it on shoots that lasted over 12 hours, and my lips stayed moist the whole time. Some long-lasting lipstick can get cakey, but not this one. It’s so moisturising.”

The convenience is another key selling point, Murphy believes, along with the packaging. “You don’t have to use a lip liner, you just swipe it on and you’re good to go – no bleeding outside the lip lines,” she observes. “And I love the packaging. It’s sleek, it’s sexy – and [thanks to the magnet] the lid won’t come off in my bag. I think the brand has done a great job of kicking it up a few notches, while retaining its heritage.”

The campaign visual shows Murphy at the wheel of a vintage Mercedes. “The shoot was great,” she relates. “I think the ad is a bit more edgy and I found it easy to invoke this feeling of a women who is passionate, strong and confident – even if I didn’t step on set feeling that way! That’s what is so great about the right lipstick; it can instantly change your feelings and your mood.”

Murphy looks stunning – both in the ad and in the flesh – but admits she works at it. “I’ve learned the tricks of the trade, especially when travelling,” she explains. “It’s so important to keep hydrated, and to stay away from alcohol and caffeine.

“A good skin care routine is also super-important… as is sun block. On a long flight I always make sure I cleanse, take off my make-up, and moisturise throughout. I’m a big Re-Nutriv fan. And my go-to product has always been Advanced Night Repair. I grew up with Estée Lauder and don’t really know anything else.”

Murphy has a surprisingly grounded attitude to ageing, for somebody who makes a living from the way she looks. “My nanna always said “˜beauty is as beauty does’,” she reveals. “So if you take care of yourself, and you enjoy your life, you’re going to look and feel good.

“Confidence is another big factor,” Murphy continues. “And the older I’ve got, the more confidence I have; I feel better now at 40 than I did at 30. I’m not opposed to tidying up little bits here and there,” she adds with a smile, “but I haven’t got to that stage yet.”

[houseAd2]