FRANCE. L’Oréal Produits de Luxe says 2004 will be a year of intense activity, with no let-up after the launch-heavy year of 2003. And the company is preparing to launch the first fragrance from the hot Dutch neo-surrealist fashion house Viktor Rolf, possibly at the end of the year.
Viktor & Rolf – consisting of Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren – is one of the hottest labels in the European fashion industry. L’Oreal has held the fragrance rights for two years. In 1997 the designers famously created a fragrance bottle which did not open – an ironic comment on fashion branding.
While that “˜perfume’ is currently showing in a Parisian exhibition of their work, the next version will be the real thing, international marketing director travel retail worldwide Jean-Michel Bostroem told The Moodie Report.
“We’re on the verge of launch,” he said, “at least for Europe.”
More immediately, he said that last year’s blockbuster women’s fragrance Attraction will continue its travel retail roll-out through the few months of 2004. Ralph Lauren Blue for Women, following hot on the heels of the highly-successful Polo Blue, is also hitting the market during the first quarter.
Men’s cosmetics range Lancôme pour Homme will be extended within Asia in the second semester. And the second half will also see a major new launch with a feminine line from Armani (possibly supported by a men’s line).
The fast-growing Biotherm skincare range will continue its aggressive roll-out in Asia and the Shu Uemura line is being further extended.
Biotherm opened its first boutique in Singapore Changi airport terminal two last July and has been the subject of an intensive launch programme since. Shu Uemura is also being developed rapidly, with around 12 points of sale in place by the end of 2003 and more planned this year.
Other plans affecting travel retail include a new flanker fragrance for Ralph Lauren under the Ralph name in the July-August period.
Bostroem said the company believes the business climate is ripe for business growth this year, particularly in relatively undeveloped areas like men’s cosmetics. “The rising tide lifts all boats,” he said.
He pointed to the approximate 65% share that men represent of international passenger traffic and said significant incremental business can be generated from such a base.
“Obviously they already buy “˜male guilt relief’ presents but there is also an opportunity when they are there to tempt them to buy for themselves – that opportunity does not exist in domestic markets. That’s why we launched the Lancôme skincare range in travel retail three months before the domestic market.”
