Family companies are a rare breed within the upper echelons of the conglomerate-dominated global beauty industry but Clarins is a noble and thriving exception. This year marks the French house’s 70th anniversary, an extraordinarily sustained narrative of innovation, commitment and heritage.
Virginie Courtin, appointed Clarins Managing Director in 2022, is a proud third-generation torchbearer for the family, the company and their joint values. The Moodie Davitt Report Founder & Chairman Martin Moodie chatted with her during the TFWA World Exhibition in Cannes about the values and spirit of constant reinvention that have ensured Clarins maintains its place at the beauty elite’s top table.
For Courtin, this landmark year is not just about celebrating success, but about remaining young at heart and staying true to the values espoused by founder Jacques Courtin.
Those values are enshrined in a programme launched in 2022 called Clarins T.R.U.S.T. – an acronym for traceability, responsibility, uniqueness, security and transparency, principles espoused and embraced at every stage of its operations.
In this compelling conversation, Courtin describes how the brand has flourished while staying true to its core values of listening to women and caring for people and planet.
Martin Moodie: Virginie, 2024 marks a seven-decade landmark for your family company. Given the landscape of the beauty industry and its domination by conglomerates, that is an extraordinary achievement. Let’s start by talking about what this means to the company and to you personally.
Virginie Courtin: Being able to celebrate 70 years is a great source of pride. In the beauty industry not many brands reach such a milestone while still being leaders, experiencing double-digit growth in many markets, and staying innovative and dynamic. It’s something we’re very proud of, but it also involves a great responsibility.
So while we are thrilled to celebrate 70 years, it’s not just about marking the anniversary, but about still being young at heart, launching new products, reinventing ourselves and embracing innovation.
I’m very happy with where we are, especially as part of the third generation and the last one that knew the founder personally. It’s an important moment in the company’s history because we’ve stayed independent and 100% family-owned, which is a challenge we’re very proud of.
My role is to be that pivotal generation that ensures we continue to develop Clarins, create growth and conquer new customers and markets. And we need to achieve this while preserving the values that my grandfather envisioned for the brand.
I want to explore those values. Paramount is listening to women – always your core consumer. Then, of course, caring for the planet. How have those principles not only been sustained but evolved over time?
Listening to women was indeed one of the founding values of Clarins. My grandfather always said that our products last not because they’re driven by marketing, but because they arise from customer demand.
If we listen to women, we have the best product assortment because it’s based on their needs. We continue this approach today. My grandfather was a pioneer – he was the first to include cards inside each product where customers could give feedback, essentially inventing CRM back in the day.
Today, everything has gone digital, but we’re still communicating with our customers. For instance, last year we launched an app called T.R.U.S.T., where customers can trace all the ingredients from a product using the batch code. We used blockchain technology for this, and we’re possibly the first in the industry to do so.
Customers now want transparency and traceability. T.R.U.S.T. provides them with safe, reliable information about their products.
When we launched it, customers were really impressed. They loved seeing where a plant was grown, how it was harvested, and the whole journey through quality control to the final product.
Given the 70th anniversary, I think it’s important to note that with Clarins this commitment comes from the original DNA of the house rather than being a modern response to evolving consumer sentiment.
Absolutely. Another aspect dear to my heart is that while we produce everything in France, we export 95% of our products worldwide. That’s why I travel frequently, and when I do I spend time with beauty advisors in the field because they’re the ones interacting with customers directly.
They often have the answers we need, even if they don’t always realise it. We just need to ask the right questions. Listening to those on the front line gives us the most valuable feedback for developing products and communications.
Regarding nature, it’s always been part of our DNA – our first ingredients are plants, and we believe we must give back to nature. Over the years, we’ve done a lot to protect and regenerate biodiversity. We aim to be exemplary in protecting nature while delivering the best products to our clients.
Let’s wind the clock back. Clarins delisted in 2008, 16 years ago. That was a brave thing to do at the time, in fact at any time. Tell me what that decision has meant subsequently in terms of how the company has been able to operate.
We need to go back to why we listed on the stock exchange in the first place, which was in 1984. Back then, my grandfather believed that the stock market helped the real economy and supported companies in growing, acquiring suppliers, or expanding in other ways.
By 2008, however, my father, who was CEO at the time, felt that the company was serving the shareholders rather than its core purpose. He was forced to focus on short-term gains instead of long-term growth.
Every time he made a significant investment, the stock price would drop, creating pressure. He realised that, at that point, the real economy was serving the stock market, not the other way around. That’s when we made the decision to go private again. It was all about gaining freedom – freedom to think long term.
Today, that freedom is our strength. As a family-owned business, we think about the next 10, 20 or even 30 years because we know the company will be passed onto future generations. We make investments that may not be popular in the short term but are critical to the company’s foundation for the future.
Because that quarterly pressure is in many ways a false and certainly binding one, right? The markets can claim you’ve done poorly year-on-year, but there could be broader conditions at play which can make what is actually a very successful company look otherwise.
Exactly, and it also impacts commitments such as CSR. We’ve always been committed to Corporate Social Responsibility, but if we were still on the stock exchange or had other shareholders, we wouldn’t have been able to make certain investments at the right time.
For example, in 2020, we decided to make all our packaging recyclable. That required millions of Euros in investment to overhaul the moulds at our industrial park. We did it because we knew it was crucial for the long term, even though it wasn’t immediately popular.
Had we waited, we might have been forced to rush the project later due to government or legal pressures. By staying true to our values, we’ve built stronger relationships with our customers.
I have always been fascinated by family companies. But history tells us the third generation can sometimes be tricky…
… Yes, people often tell me that. Sometimes I think maybe I should’ve been the fourth generation and bypassed the third! But in all seriousness, I feel the weight of that responsibility. I’m very aware of the privilege I’ve had growing up in this family, of the passion my grandfather passed on to me. I knew him well, and I don’t take this responsibility lightly.
He passed away about 13 years ago, so I was already an adult and had finished my schooling. We spent a lot of time together. He had two sons, but we were very close, and it was a great loss.
As for the third generation, what’s crucial is that while I grew up with Clarins, it wasn’t the size it is now. My role is to ensure that the next generation understands the founding values, how Jacques would have done things, while also managing the much larger company we have today.
Is there a new generation coming through?
Yes, I’d say Generation Alpha! The oldest is 18. My father and uncle had second marriages, so there’s about a 20-year age gap between us and our younger siblings. That’s why I say Generation Alpha.
Do you feel any sense of burden from the generational heritage?
Not burdened, because I chose where I am today. I never had pressure to take on this role. For example, my sister isn’t involved in the company and she’s never expressed a desire to be.
For me, it felt more natural. I always listened to my grandfather say that he never worked a day in his life, and I’ve always felt I should feel the same way.
I go to work every day feeling happy, passionate, proud, lucky and grateful. I always remind myself that it’s both a privilege and a responsibility.
Let’s look at the macro-environment for the beauty sector. Events in the industry, particularly in China and South Korea – two key North Asian markets – have resulted in big structural changes, what people call a ‘reset’. How do you see the state of the beauty nation?
We’re in a critical moment because we’re seeing turbulence, and we have to be very careful. It’s not only the markets that are contracting, but also the geopolitical situation, which is very unstable, so we’re trying to navigate through that.
The strength of Clarins is that we’re present in many different countries. When one market faces challenges, we can invest more in another that’s more dynamic.
For example, you mentioned China. China is interesting for us because we invested there early on. We bet long ago that China would become what it is today. We entered the market early, invested heavily, and now we hold a strong position. We’re ranked number six or seven depending on the data, which is a very good position.
We’ve built strong relationships with Chinese customers by staying true to our values and avoiding over-promotion.
Even though the Chinese market is currently slowing down, and even decreasing, Clarins is still growing there, which is positive. However, if the market continues to decline, we have to remain cautious. You can’t win forever in a shrinking market. In terms of travel retail, it’s been challenging, and you, Martin, are in the best position to understand that.
Travellers have changed – the demographics, behaviours and what they buy have evolved. We’re back to some 2019 numbers in terms of travellers, but they don’t shop the same way and, like everyone else, we’re feeling that.
What helps us is our strength in local markets. We were very dependent on Chinese travellers, but we’re now addressing new travellers, particularly younger ones. These younger travellers are looking for new experiences and fresh ways to connect with the brand.
I always see challenges as opportunities. Being here in Cannes, it’s interesting to see how retailers are approaching brand expression for their customers. It pushes us to innovate and think differently.
You had a better balance anyway. Clarins was never as reliant on the unofficial market as some of your peers. For them, the changes hit like a locomotive, and being public, they were hit even harder.
Yes, I didn’t necessarily want to say it, but we did take the opposite approach. At one point, some within Clarins’ travel retail sector were telling us that we weren’t pushing hard enough. But staying true to our customers and our values has paid off in the long term, especially during moments of crisis.
It does. The reset in South Korea and Hainan happened so quickly. A double whammy. Clarins played the long game, and while it was still a shock, you’re better positioned than many.
Let’s move on by talking about something close to your heart – Clarins We Care. Clarins has just acquired its second Domaine. I remember the first time we met in 2019 talking a lot about the first Domaine. How important is the acquisition of Domaine Sainte-Colombe in terms of achieving the company’s long-term vision and driving your business?
Yes, we can now say we have a new role – we’re farmers, too. We started with the first Domaine in 2016. Today, six ingredients from that Domaine are used in our products, and we practice regenerative agriculture. This is the most demanding form of agriculture – it’s not just organic, but it actively regenerates the soil.
At first, we didn’t know if we could produce enough plants using these methods, but now we know we can. That’s why we acquired the second Domaine, which is 50 times bigger than the first. Our goal is to have one-third of the plants in our formulas sourced from these two Domaines.
I like to compare it to making a great wine. You can have the same grape variety, but the way you treat the soil, harvest and manage the vines makes all the difference.
The same goes for cosmetics. You can have the same plant as a competitor, but the way it’s harvested makes the difference. For us, it’s about offering the best ingredients for our customers and for the planet. It’s a virtuous cycle, and we’re proud to be the first to do it.
As for our sustainability roadmap, we’re on track with all our commitments. By the end of 2025, we will have all our packaging recyclable and 80% of our ingredients will be organic.
It was just 40% in 2020, so you’ve doubled it in four years. That’s extraordinary progress.
Yes, we’re very happy and proud. It’s not just me; it’s the amazing team behind it. They’re proud to be part of this change, and we continue supporting causes like biodiversity, health and children’s initiatives.
As well as caring for the planet, caring for people is key to the Clarins ethos. Tell me about that.
Yes, it’s about caring for the planet and caring for people. When it comes to people, we have our employees, who are our first ambassadors. Clarins wouldn’t be anything without the amazing individuals we have.
As a side note, my grandfather, before he passed away, told us he wanted his gravestone to say: “Jacques Courtin, a man who surrounded himself with people smarter than him.” And we did that. Actually, one of the plaques was stolen, so we had to redo it!
But that’s really the mentality. People are incredibly important to us. We’ve involved everyone in this journey of CSR and I think today employees care more than ever about the companies they work for. They embrace working for a company that is CSR-driven and as committed as we are.
We see that they’re more motivated, more respectful and give more. We do a lot to make our employees feel at home, and we’re proud to have employees who have been with us for 40 years. It shows that they feel at home. Jonathan [Zrihen, Clarins Group President & CEO], for example, started as an intern and never left.
Last year, we conducted a big study on the living wage because I wanted to ensure all our employees worldwide were paid a decent wage. It was very important for us, so we made the necessary adjustments to ensure 100% of our employees receive a living wage.
Beyond our employees, we also care for people who aren’t directly part of Clarins. Supporting children is very dear to our hearts, so we launched partnerships with Mary’s Meals. This organisation provides school meals in some of the poorest countries in the world.
Our goal is to distribute 3 million meals a year to children in need. I love partnerships like this because when you can make a difference and have the means to give back, especially to children in need, it gives deeper meaning to what you do every day.
We also support many health-related causes, as health is one of the pillars we focus on. We do a lot with the Look Good Feel Better initiative, supporting health causes.
I’m going to read a quote to you. You’ve already touched on this, but I thought it was such a powerful statement that I’d like to know more. Christian Courtin once said, “The thing that brings the men and women of the Clarins group together, besides a passion for all aspects of beauty, is the desire to be involved in something bigger than our work.
“It’s the conviction that together, we have to take care of the planet and improve the lives of current and future generations.”
Tell us a bit more about how that philosophy plays out daily, from, say, the owners to the Brand Ambassadors on the shop floor.
It’s incredibly important. We work in beauty, but for us, beauty is meaningless without humanity, goodness and generosity. That’s the real definition of beauty for us.
We’ve always believed that Clarins is not just about selling products; it’s about wellness, feeling good. My grandfather wanted to be a doctor but had to stop his medical studies due to the Second World War.
He always believed that beauty isn’t superficial – it’s about feeling good, taking care of yourself, and listening to your body and your needs. We believe everything is interconnected.
It’s not just about growing the company for growth’s sake. It’s important that we grow together with our employees, clients and everyone involved in this journey. Today, even when we recruit top managers, we prioritise values and behaviour over hard skills. I believe that makes a real difference.
Many employees who join Clarins tell us they can feel the difference in the company culture. It’s something we cherish and want to maintain forever, even though, of course, no company is perfect.
It’s a nice story. You mention your grandfather a lot. Tell me more about him.
Yes, I love him and miss him every day. That grandfather was named Jacques, and I named one of my sons Jacques as well. I have twins who are seven years old, a boy and a girl, and then Jacques, who is five.
Virginie, it’s been a delightful conversation. Any final message to the travel retail community as they read this?
It’s great to be back here in Cannes. This event is an important rendezvous every year, and it’s nice to see everyone, even though the market is struggling a bit.
It’s energising to reconnect with key retailers and partners and present our new products. It gives us fresh momentum to think differently and work together to continue growing. We’re still seeing growth, which is positive, and we remain optimistic. It’s a good moment to come together.
This industry truly encapsulates a global community. It’s so multinational, which is one of the wonderful aspects of it. And we have to remember that even when times are tough, we’re looking at air passenger numbers doubling by 2040. It’s one of the few industries where you can say that.
Exactly. Optimism is key. I always prefer to see the glass half full. ✈
