Introduction: As Caudalie marks its 30th anniversary, we speak with Co-Founder Mathilde Thomas who reflects on the brand’s three-decade journey – from becoming a clean beauty pioneer to shaping its next era through innovation, digitalisation and travel retail expansion.
Caudalie was founded in 1995 by Mathilde and Bertrand Thomas on their family vineyard in Bordeaux. The brand was born from a meeting with Professor Joseph Vercauteren, who talked to the couple about the antioxidant powers of grape seed polyphenols. That discovery laid the foundation for a skincare philosophy rooted in natural science, innovation and respect for the environment – values that continue to define Caudalie today.
Three decades on, travel retail has become one of the company’s most dynamic growth engines. The channel has evolved into a key platform for global brand discovery, shopper recruitment and omnichannel storytelling.
Reflecting this momentum, Caudalie unveiled a revamped presence at TFWA World Exhibition. The brand’s heightened presence in Cannes underscored its commitment to the channel and its ambition to build deeper engagement with global travellers.
In this exclusive interview, Thomas shares insights into how the company balances growth with integrity, the pivotal role of independence and agility, and how new frontiers such as AI, fragrance and haircare are shaping the next chapter in Caudalie’s evolution.
We also chat with Caudalie General Manager of Global Travel Retail Benoît Davaillon, who shares his insights into the brand’s impressive growth trajectory in the channel.
The Moodie Davitt Report: How are you celebrating Caudalie’s 30th anniversary, and how significant is this milestone for you personally and for the company’s evolution?
Mathilde Thomas: We’re hosting a major celebration in January at our new Paris headquarters in Le Marais. It’s more than an office – it’s a hub with a boutique, Caudalie Spa, yoga and Pilates studios open to the public, an art gallery and a start-up incubator for female-founded beauty brands.
We’re extremely proud of what we have achieved these 30 years. We’ve built an incredible and professional team. I’ve always believed in creating the most effective products using clean, natural formulas – and in making Caudalie as sustainable as possible. Thirty years later, that philosophy still holds true. Our success comes from our people, but also from the fact that we have always been clean beauty pioneers.
When we started 30 years ago, we were the first to introduce antioxidant polyphenols to the market. In 2000, we patented resveratrol, three times more effective than retinol. In 2005, we launched Viniferine, our anti-dark-spot active ingredient, and we created the Vinothérapie Spa. We were pioneers of clean beauty before it became a movement.
Caudalie has remained steadfast in its philosophy of clean, effective and, importantly, accessible skincare. How has this ethos guided the company’s growth and its expansion into new channels, such as travel retail?
Caudalie was born from science – from founders with medical and pharmacy backgrounds – so our products must truly solve skin issues such as dark spots, acne, firmness and hydration. They have to work and they have to be clean and natural. Since we first launched in French pharmacies, we needed to stay affordable.
Back in 2007, when I spoke to the New York press about our clean formulas, nobody cared as it was too early for the clean beauty revolution. Now there’s an entire ‘Clean at Sephora’ section, which shows how much the movement has accelerated.
Caudalie began by banning six harmful ingredients. Today, our blacklist includes over 73 ingredients – anything that’s a potential hormone disruptor, non-biodegradable or unsafe for the skin. We keep pushing ourselves to do better and this is the philosophy that will guide us through the next 30 years.
Though maintaining that level of formulation integrity is demanding, it is simply how we have always worked. Not every lab can formulate to our standards. Creating textures like our Vinoperfect Serum with zero silicone, PEG or EDTA is a real challenge. [Interview continues below box.]
“We want travel retail to be a showcase destination” Caudalie General Manager of Global Travel Retail Benoît Davaillon describes travel retail as both a recruitment driver and a showcase for the brand’s clean, effective and “cool” skincare credentials. He outlines how agility, independence and a selective market strategy underpin Caudalie’s sustained growth and ambitious expansion plans for 2025 and beyond. The Moodie Davitt Report: Travel retail has become an increasingly important channel for Caudalie and one where the brand has performed particularly well in recent years. What strategic role does it play within the overall brand ecosystem? Travel retail is still relatively new for us – we started around nine years ago, compared with other brands that began over 30 years ago. It’s primarily a recruitment channel. We aim to deliver an omnichannel presence across retail, online and travel retail. We want travel retail to be a showcase destination, not a substitute for local markets. That’s why we exited travel retail in Korea in 2024 – to protect our brand and our strong performance in China, which is growing nearly +95% year-on-year. What we lose in one market, we gain in another. What factors do you believe underpin Caudalie’s success in this channel? Our strength lies in independence. We’re not part of a large group, so we can move quickly – say yes to opportunities, design activations in two weeks and adapt fast. We also don’t bundle brands; we focus solely on Caudalie. That agility makes us a top-performing skincare brand in several airports across Europe and Asia Pacific. And, of course, our formulas are effective, clean and affordable. Plus, we’re a ‘cool’ brand – our Beauty Elixir has become well-loved by makeup artists and celebrities such as Selena Gomez, which helps visibility enormously. What are your biggest priorities for the year ahead, both in travel retail and domestic markets? In travel retail, Europe remains a key focus. We want to expand in markets such as Portugal, Ireland and Argentina and open new locations with Gebr. Heinemann. In Asia Pacific, Thailand with King Power is a priority. The USA also has many opportunities. Overall, we’ve only unlocked 30% of Caudalie’s potential in travel retail – so there’s much more to come. We’re also opening a factory in the Cosmetic Valley to increase production and reinforce our vertical integration.
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Having guided Caudalie over three decades, how would you describe the most transformative shifts within the beauty industry during that time?
To me, the way we communicate beauty has been the biggest change. When we launched in 1995, there was no internet or mobile phone. Social media completely changed how we reach consumers and now consumers know everything from ingredients and formulation to packaging.
Today’s consumers look for brands that align with their values and have the knowledge to back it up. To me, the next revolution will be AI.
Speaking of AI, how is Caudalie approaching artificial intelligence as part of its future growth strategy?
We’ve invested in a company developing AI solutions for Caudalie over the next three years. We’re implementing AI on our website, using it to support sales teams and optimise our marketing mix.
In the future, AI could even help us design formulas – we already have a huge data set of ingredients and trial results and AI could be used to improve and create formulations faster and more efficiently.
Caudalie already addresses a wide range of skincare needs. Are there new product categories or innovations you’re exploring as the next frontier?
Possibly fragrance – and haircare too. Before creating Caudalie I worked for Robertet, so I know the fragrance world well. If we do it, it will be at an accessible price point with natural formulas. The same goes for haircare – no silicones, no sulfates. I think these categories have plenty of potential.
As a female entrepreneur who has built a global brand, what have been the key challenges and proudest moments on your journey?
I was raised by a strong, independent mother who taught my sister and me to be fearless. So when Bertrand [Thomas’ husband] and I created Caudalie at 23, gender was never the issue – age was. We looked so young that pharmacists doubted our expertise. That was the real barrier.
You’ve mentioned supporting women-led start-ups through your incubator. What guidance do you offer these emerging founders?
Many of these female founders already have great products and strong marketing. My advice is: don’t neglect operations because execution and focus are everything. ✈
