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Bally’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection shown in Milan takes a “couture-luxe” approach to modern dressing | |
Bally’s joint Creative Directors Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler unveiled their Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection at a presentation in Milan on 25 September, exploring a modern romance in which streamlined sportswear silhouettes meet precious, petal-strewn fabrics.
Designed to fuse Bally’s 160-year-old heritage of leather craftsmanship with a sense of Switzerland’s landscape and traditions, plus images of a debutante in lace with Karlheinz Weinberger’s photographs of 1960s working-class teenagers, the pair created a contemporary aesthetic based on unexpected juxtaposition.
Laser-cut soft leather simulates perforated sports mesh in knee-length coats of green, blue and yellow; simple A-line day dresses are crafted from hand-embroidered lace; and cotton-jersey T-shirts are inset at the shoulders with padded leather motorcross panels.
A “couture-luxe” approach
This second collection by Herz and Fidler introduces a “couture-luxe” approach to modern dressing, according to the company. Iconic womenswear items – the trapeze dress, shell top, pencil skirt, cardigan jacket and collarless coat – are reinvigorated with sharp embellishing techniques to create pieces with subtle drama.
New this season is a three-dimensional print effect using embroidery and appliqué, applied by hand. Embroidered leather swirls, sequin embroidered tulle and geometric crystal shards embellish two-dimensional printed fabrics to create texture.
Hero pieces range from a simple strapless lace dress appliquéd with lace and leather petals to a draped leather, one-shouldered monochrome dress. A sage leather and chiffon T-shirt encrusted with embroidered, mirrored glass-like shards is paired with a pared-down white leather pencil skirt, while a sleeveless day dress has a built-in sequin-stringed necklace and is printed with a trompe-l’oeil version of the same.
Nature motifs of petals and leaves extend to the use of natural fabrics: Swiss cotton poplin, soft nappa leather, silk crèpe de chine, mercerised cotton and silk lace in a soft colour palette of peony, rosemary, grey, brown and blue.
Modern leather craftsmanship techniques
For shoes, modern leather craftsmanship techniques see Herz and Fidler taking their inspiration of a cat’s-cradle-like sandal on Bally’s 1951 centenary poster and reworking it into pieces that are designed to recall the barefoot debutante.
Every heel height is present in sandals that range from rose-coloured high heels with crocodile platforms to rose-red kitten heels and sorbet-coloured slides, while leather is engineered into cord-thin laces and plump, filo-rolled straps.
Bags explore the innovative fabrications and contemporary craftsmanship of the ready-to-wear collection, with the strings of leather sequins, lace-embroidered petals, swirls of appliqué suede filo rolls and mirrored shards appearing variously across three new shapes: the pouch, the A-frame and the boxy clutch. Colours reflect the light, natural tones of the collection in eau de nil, biscuit and peony.
Finally, in a witty nod to the brand’s Swiss provenance, Herz and Fidler’s playful mascot motif of a mountain goat dangles from each bag.
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Above and below: More pictures from Bally’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection shown in Milan on 25 September |
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About Bally
Founded in Switzerland in 1851, Bally’s shoe and accessory collections are designed to combine sophisticated contemporary style with high quality craftsmanship and fine leathers. Now owned by Labelux Group, Bally celebrates its 160th anniversary in 2011 with an ever-increasing network of global operations and a robust e-commerce business. Visit www.bally.com
