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American designer Betsey Johnson (in white) unveils her “addictive” fruity-floriental signature fragrance in New York with (from left) Cary Lopez, President of US distributor the Karis Group, Bernard Blanc, Vice-President of Colorful Licenses, Betsey Johnson’s licensee and international distributor, Kristine Spurney, Karis Group Vice-President and Cees Homburg, Colorful Licenses President |
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“I’ve had this bottle in mind for 20 years, and have wanted to create my own perfume as long as I can remember,” Betsey tells the crowd |
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Betsey Johnson’s eclectic New York penthouse apartment was adorned with hundreds of pink and fuchsia balloons and flowers, as well as her personal keepsakes, for the launch of her signature fragrance in its art deco vintage-inspired bottles |
US. Some 50 of the top US fashion media experienced a “˜down-home’ glimpse of iconic American designer Betsey Johnson and her new signature perfume in New York City in early June when she unveiled the deco vintage inspired bottle filled with an “addictive” new fruity-floriental juice created by the designer and her licensee, Cees Homburg and his Colorful Licenses company, writes Lois Pasternak, Editor/Publisher of Travel Markets Insider in a special article for The Moodie Report.
“I’ve had this bottle in mind for 20 years, and have wanted to create my own perfume as long as I can remember,” Betsey told the admiring crowd during the launch party. “I knew that it was just a matter of time until it happened, but it had to be right.”
Known for being a true original since she burst onto the New York fashion scene in the 1960s, Betsey was reportedly approached by many of the leading fragrance houses in the US, before choosing the small, independently-owned Dutch firm Colorful Licenses, licensee of the Oilily brand, to create the perfume.
“I could see that Colorful Licenses understood me immediately. After I saw the bright, colourful and fun designs they have done with Oilily, I felt they would be able to create a perfume that would reflect me,” she said. “I wanted the fragrance to represent all the different aspects of my personality. I wanted it to be sweet and addictive and I wanted my male friends to like it.”
Colorful Licenses Vice-President Bernard Blanc, who acted as the nose for the scent, said: “Betsey was able to tell us everything that she liked, and even created a board on which she wrote all the things that she wanted to see and feel in the scent.”
The juice, created by Mane, opens with pear, tangerine, grapefruit and a touch of blackcurrant, has feminine heart notes of freesia and lily of the valley, and a long-lasting, sensual drydown of cedarwood, sandalwood and praline combined with amber and musk.
The flocked carton is pure Betsey Johnson. Each side features one of the textiles identified with her fashions, including a signature leopard print found in all her collections and a rose pattern inspired by the wallpaper that covers her boutiques and New York showroom.
Input for the development of the fragrance also comes from the New York-based Karis Group, who will be distributing the fragrance in the US and co-hosted the evening press launch.
For being such an independent, niche brand, the turnout for the Betsey Johnson introduction rivalled those of major launches from the largest companies – as has the initial reception from retailers.
“Bloomingdale’s will carry the Betsey Johnson fragrance on an exclusive basis for one month until September. Macy’s East has confirmed that it will be carrying the fragrance in all five districts, and that it will feature the fragrance on the cover page of its October catalogue,” Colorful Licenses President Cees Homburg said. It will also be available in the Betsey Johnson Boutiques, Nordstrom and Sephora with more to come.
Homburg says that US$11 million worth of Betsey Johnson fragrances have already been sold and that the company has budgeted US$17 million in sales for 2006. “I want to sell at least 30,000-40,000 bottles this season,” he added. “And next year we are projecting US$25 million in sales, and that is only in the US.”
The duty free debut will coincide with the US domestic launch. Colorful Licenses has named Nick Tamma’s Florida-based ACG Trading Inc to distribute the brand in the North America duty free market and the Caribbean, including the cruiselines, and northern and southern borders. ACG Trading will also be representing Oilily in duty free for Colorful Licenses. Latin America will launch at a later date.
“We are also going to be doing a big push in Europe, starting in Spain, with some special activities planned for Cannes,” said Homburg, adding that the fragrance has received a very positive reaction from the duty free retailers who have seen it to date.
Johnson herself is very excited about the international potential for the brand.
“This is my first global project and it is an absolute big time thrill for me,” she told this writer. A contemporary of such designers as Mary Quant, and a regular in the Andy Warhol and rock group the Velvet Underground in the 1960s, the tiny, exuberant woman, known for her hair extensions and cartwheeling down the runway after her shows, is like an ageless sprite. Her clothing has ranged from rock-n-roll to punk rock, to ultra-feminine lace and in 1999, the Council of Fashion Designers of America presented her with a Timeless Talent award created especially for her.
“My fashion designs have been spreading,” said the designer, who currently operates more than 45 Betsey Johnson boutiques worldwide, including in London, Vancouver, Toronto, Honolulu and Dubai (a franchise). Johnson’s fashions are also sold in more than 1000 speciality stores in the US, Europe and Japan.
She began licensing her signature prints and whimsy in 2003, and the world of Betsey Johnson now includes shoes, lingerie, handbags, eyewear, watches, accessories and home goods.
“My handbags got me into Japan and I am in 190 Victoria’s Secret stores as well as their catalogue. But fragrance is the Mount Everest of a licensed product. A perfume is the epitome. Girls are always looking for a designer’s fragrance,” said Johnson.
Duty free holds a special place in Betsey’s heart: “Duty free stores always make me happy. I especially love to shop in the air. One year I did almost all my Christmas shopping in the plane.”
The Betsey Johnson fragrance collection includes 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum Spray, retailing in the US at a suggested price of US$55 and US$75 respectively; Perfumed Bath & Shower Gel, 200ml at US$28; Perfumed Body Lotion, 200ml, US$28.
The advertising visual consists of a fantastical Betsey astride a flying swan, created by photographer David LaChapelle.
About Travel Markets Insider: Published by Lois and Paul Pasternak, Travel Markets Insider publishes a much-respected weekly e-Newsletter with specific focus on the Americas travel retail industry. It also produces a twice-yearly print edition for the Fort Lauderdale and Cannes exhibitions and has a website at www.travelmarketsinsider.net The Moodie Report and Travel Markets Insider share a similar editorial philiosophy and work closely together on occasions to add value to their respective reports and to the industry.
MORE STORIES ON COLORFUL LICENSES
Colorful Licenses previews Betsey Johnson fragrance – 11/04/06
Oilily seeks US partner in Americas drive; boosts bag and beauty ranges – 04/04/06
Colorful Licenses inks Betsey Johnson fragrance deal – 15/02/06
Brand Showcase: Oilily beauty and accessories to take Voyage into travel retail – 04/03/05
