Coty Prestige brightens up the make-up market with ck one color

Coty Prestige’s Thomas Burkhardt: “The nice thing about ck one is that it’s such a global entity – the fragrance is sold successfully in 185 countries – so we really feel there is a global opportunity for the ck one make-up too.”

When the unisex ck one fragrance hit the shelves in 1994 it broke new ground – and plenty of sales records – within the beauty business. In the past 18 years that fragrance has evolved into a global lifestyle brand incorporating men’s and women’s jeanswear, underwear and swimwear. As previously reported, late last month Coty Prestige added to that portfolio with the introduction of the hotly-anticipated ck one color make-up collection.

The line was launched in selected domestic markets in March – starting in Spain with El Corte Inglés and Myer department stores in Australia. In April, ck one color will roll out to Marionnaud in France, El Corte Inglés in Portugal and to Ulta and Ulta.com in the US. It will be extended to other retail doors in the UK, Germany and Latin America by year-end 2012, with further global expansion slated for next Spring. The collection will make its travel retail debut this September.

“In the beginning, for each country we will launch with one exclusive retail partner, in a limited number of doors,” Coty Prestige Vice President Marketing Calvin Klein Fragrances Thomas Burkhardt tells The Moodie Report. “We wanted to be humble about the fact that launching a make-up brand is a major undertaking, and I think that the biggest mistake we could make is to launch it like a fragrance, in many doors, all at the same time.”

Such caution is understandable, given the brand’s previous attempts (not with Coty) to make its mark within the colour category. In 2000, then licensee Unilever Cosmetics International launched the Calvin Klein Collection, a make-up range that was discontinued in 2003. In 2007, Markwins Holding Company introduced a colour collection, again under license, called ck Calvin Klein Beauty. It was showcased at Cannes – and made its travel retail debut in 2008 at Singapore Changi – but is no longer sold.

Coty Prestige is determined to avoid such pitfalls. “Even though as a company we know a lot about make-up, it would have been arrogant for us to go out and say ‘this is it’,” Burkhardt explains.

“We were lucky enough to find domestic retail partners who are very much interested in learning with us. We regard the first few months as a learning phase, which will allow us to figure out what works, what doesn’t, and how can we best fine-tune everything before we expand [the brand and the distribution]. We are deliberately testing different retail environments and different types of merchandising.”

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Burkhardt describes the collection’s positioning as entry level prestige. “There is no major designer brand within entry level prestige, which is why retailers are very excited about this collection,” he reveals. “We see this sector as a big opportunity area for a new make-up offering”¦It is difficult to [quantify objectives] but the target over the next two years is around US$50 million. That is somewhat moderate perhaps, because we know this launch will take time and effort.”

Travel retail has been earmarked to play a key role. “We are aiming to be on-counter in the first doors as of September and, as is the case with the domestic introductions, it will be a slow build-up in targeted doors,” Burkhardt explains. “Obviously, we are looking at those retail partners with whom we have a strong fragrance business, initially in Western Europe, the Americas, and the Middle East.” He adds. “The domestic launch in Asia will happen a little later, so we will synchronise the travel retail roll-out there with that.”

The Powder Eyeshadow Quads and Color + Treat Lip Kits showcase the collection’s versatility and compact packaging

But Burkhardt emphasises that the ck one color collection is considered to have potential everywhere. “The nice thing about ck one is that it’s such a global entity – the fragrance is sold successfully in 185 countries – so we really feel there is a global opportunity for the make-up too,” he asserts.

“Of course that means we need to meet the needs of a wide range of skin tones. It was clear we had to start with a full line-up of products, so we are launching with 130 skus. But I see this growing fairly quickly to around 200, as we add new products, and new shades, in the first year.”

In terms of stand-out products at launch, Burkhardt singles out the 3-in-1 Face Makeup SPF 8, but praises other innovations too, such as the adjustable wand of the Mascara, and the compactness of the Color + Treat Lip Kit.

The ck one color 3-in-1 Face Makeup SPF 8 has already been earmarked as a key component of the collection

“Overall, the line was designed to have a distinctive energy, and will be a success generally,” Burkhardt notes. “But it’s the little details that will make the difference. So many people are always rushing, always on the go, so you need to offer them targeted, intelligent products. And if they can carry one item, instead of three, who doesn’t appreciate that?”

But the game-changing element, according to Burkhardt, is the intrinsic essence of ck one. “ck one is such a democratic brand; it doesn’t talk down to you, and it doesn’t dictate,” he explains. “Authenticity is important, and we can deliver that. ck one doesn’t pretend to be anything else and it doesn’t want its consumers to be something they are not either.

“The products are for both genders, and all skin tones, and we think the price positioning is attractive and very accessible.”

All those elements, combined with the clout of the official make-up artists and the “ck one insiders”, who will serve as the brand’s consumer-driven voice, add up to what Coty believes is a recipe for success, which it will support accordingly.

“There will be three pillars,” notes Burkhardt. “The first is in-store, because this is where consumers experience the brand, and try the products. The second pillar is digital: we have already launched our Facebook presence, and all the people involved are tweeting and so on. Lastly, there will be traditional print and outdoor media.”

Burkhardt concludes: “One of the key emerging trends within make-up is entertainment and story-telling, which suits us. ck one is not just a flat image. We have real stories behind our products and our brand.”

Dev: merging music with make-up

The ck one color collection was showcased in New York City during an exclusive preview of the Fall 2012 Calvin Klein apparel and accessories collection, and was further promoted at the launch party for the new album, the night the sun came up, from emerging US music star Dev who, along with style blogger, model and DJ Bip Ling, and graffiti artist Miss 163, is part of the ck one color “tastemaker cast”.

Singer Dev with the ck one color collection: “It’s effortless, edgy and phenomenally cool.”

These “ck one insiders” aim to embody the cool and authentic positioning of the line, and will help to build “brand buzz” and generate digital content through social media channels and their existing fan bases.

Dev was discovered online, by the record label Indie-Pop, and her song Booty Bounce was sampled in Far East Movement’s hit single Like a G6, which reached Number 1 in the US and sold over five million downloads in the country.

Dev was signed to Universal Republic in October 2010 and released her debut single Bass Down Low in November 2010. Her second single In the Dark peaked at Number 11 in the US, making it her most successful solo single to date.

The Skin Illuminator and the Mascara with adjustable wand are already firm favourites among the “ck one insiders”

Attractive, articulate and brimming with energy during The Moodie Report interview, Dev is fulsome in her praise for the ck one color collection. “I really like how refreshing it is,” she explains. “When I think about other make-up products, I tend to think of them as a mask, but the cool thing about the ck one line is it enhances your features, without caking on a ton of make-up.

“I’ve used it for shows, for music videos and everyday too, and I like it a lot,” she continues. “The packaging’s really sexy and the colours are great. It’s effortless, edgy and phenomenally cool. Growing up, that’s what I always liked about Calvin Klein – that nonchalant swag. They managed to be really cool without doing too much. That’s how I like being personally, and also as an artist, which is why I clicked so well with this collection, because it felt like me.

A colourful time in NYC with ck one

There were cocktails on the roof terrace of the Standard. A private gig by Dev. An achingly trendy hotel in NYC’s Chelsea district. And male models in their underwear (I saved the best till last). The occasion? The official reveal of the hotly-anticipated ck one color collection, from Coty Prestige.

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“It’s a great collaboration,” she adds. “Neither of us has to stick with just one thing, and we both get to play outside the box, because that’s what I do anyway and that’s what this line is about. Put it this way: I don’t have to fake any funk.”

Dev admits to being fearless in terms of trying out new make-up looks. “I experiment so much sometimes, it’s crazy,” she laughs. “But that’s fun. And it’s important that I should be able to not only make music, but also put a visual to it – especially as a female. Male [musicians] don’t generally get the opportunity to play with make-up like that.”

She adds: “Yesterday I had a two-tone lip: pink on top and red on the bottom. A couple of weeks ago I had bleached eye brows. I’ve had metallic paint across my whole face for one of my music videos. But three years ago I was working in a clothes shop, and I didn’t get to do stuff this like this, or work with such great [make-up professionals] so this is awesome for me.”

Dev is another fan of the 3-in-1 Face Makeup SPF 8, but reels off a list of must-have items. “The Mascara is really rad – I love that adjustable wand – and the lipsticks come in really cool colours,” she comments. “The eye shadow quads also make it easy for people to combine colours and create different looks, like a smoky eye.”

When time is of the essence, the Gloss Eyecolor (presented in a portable pencil format) is Dev’s go-to product. “You just roll it on your eyes and it stays there, without creasing,” she enthuses. “You could be running through an airport or applying it in the car. It’s fun, easy and comes in some great bright colours.”

But Dev is keen to point out the collection offers something for all ages. “My younger sisters loved it, but do did my mom, who’s a real estate agent,” she explains. “There are lots of great neutral shades for people who don’t like things too bright. I really do think it will appeal to a wide range of women, because there’s something to suit everyone.”

Dev concludes: “These are genuinely good products and I’m proud to be one of the people chosen to speak about them.”

Herieth Paul: a model ambassador

The ck one color advertising and point of sale imagery aims to portray authentic beauty through a diverse cast of women and men. The campaign focuses on the different Look Real, Define Yourself and Add Intensity segmentations of the collection, and combines lifestyle images with swipes of the various product textures.

Tanzanian model Herieth Paul, who features in the ck one color advertising campaign, at the NYC launch event

The campaign was shot by David Sims, with creative direction by Fabien Baron. Most of the talent also featured in the Spring 2011 ck one lifestyle and Fall 2011 ck one shock fragrance campaigns. Tanzanian model Herieth Paul was among them.

“I would describe the collection as individual, cool, young and authentic,” she tells The Moodie Report. “ck one is such an iconic brand, and when people see the campaign, they will want to try the fun colours and fall in love with it, just like I did.”

As an in-demand model, Paul is constantly on the road, something the form and function of the collection is ideally suited to. “The Color + Lip Treat Kit is in my purse 24/7,” she reveals. “It’s five products in one, but because the packaging is so convenient, it doesn’t take up a lot of space.

Official ck one color make-up artist Jodie Boland

“I’m always travelling, so I need stuff that is convenient and will fit in my bag,” Paul continues. “It also needs to be easy to apply, because I never have much time – or space.”

Paul experiments a lot with different lip colours, although she admits her personal style varies according to how she’s feeling on any given day. “But I like feeling confident,” she admits. “I want to walk into a room and make an entrance.”

Along with the Lip Kit, her favourite products are the Mousse Concealer and the Pure Color Lipstick. “My colour’s Fancy,” she reveals. “I love [accentuating] the lips.”

Practical packaging and an innovative offering are the key attractions for Paul, in terms of fragrances and cosmetics generally. “It’s very important that the products I use are different and individual,” she concludes. “I don’t want the same thing that everybody else has.”

The professional point of view

Jodie Boland is one of three professionals (along with Kristi Matamoros and Hung Vanngo) selected to be an official ck one make-up artist. She works regularly on Calvin Klein projects, and collaborates frequently with photographers such as Ben Watts and Terry Richardson.

She delivers her professional opinion with infectious enthusiasm and aplomb. “I think the versatility is genius,” Boland declares. “For example, what they’ve done with the duos (blusher/bronzers and eye pencils) makes it easier for everyone to condense their make-up bag, and facilitates going from day to night. I also love the textures, which are very buildable and long-wearing.”

Boland struggles to pick just one personal favourite – “I love it all!” – but when pressed singles out the Mascara and the 3-in-1 Face Makeup with SPF 8. “This feels like silk and is so weightless it’s like you have nothing on your skin,” she explains. “That’s great for all ages: younger women don’t like heavy make-up, and older women shouldn’t cake it on, as that’s so ageing.”

Boland continues: “If I had just five minutes to create a look, I’d use the 3-in-1, then follow it up with the Skin Illuminator, to hit the top of the cheeks for a healthy, gorgeous glow. A coat of Mascara to open the eyes, a little contouring with the Cream + Powder Blush Duo, and to finish a slick of gloss from the Color + Treat Lip Kit.”

Models strike a pose in New York City, at the official reveal of the ck one color collection

Boland stresses the importance of selecting the correct base shade. “The most common make-up mistake is the wrong foundation colour, and it drives me crazy,” she admits. “Always go just one shade darker than the face, to match your décolletage. And make sure your eye brows are groomed. Groomed brows frame the face and open up your eyes.”

Boland’s client portfolio is extensive and impressive – she’s even made up George Clooney – but there are still a few big names she’d like to wield her brushes on. “Madonna would be pretty fabulous,” she sighs. “And Michelle Obama would be cool too; she has that amazing natural beauty.”

But not even ‘A’ listers like that can distract Boland from praising the products for too long. “I am so excited about ck one color, and I think it is going to do really well,” she concludes. “I can’t afford to risk my reputation, so I couldn’t promote this if I didn’t wholeheartedly believe in it.”

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