UK. Yesterday the L’Oréal group formally unveiled the new limited editions of Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb and Antidote fragrances, at an exclusive preview of a new exhibition showcasing the work of the avant-garde Dutch design duo, located at the Barbican Art Gallery in London.
“Welcome to our House”, declared avant-garde Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf, at the preview of their Barbican retrospective yesterday. The exhibition showcases signature collections from their 15 years of fashion The retrospective, titled The House of Viktor & Rolf, presents each of the designers’ signature pieces from the past 15 years, in a specially commissioned and characteristically theatrical installation that dominates both floors of the Gallery. The exhibition will be opened to the public today.
Highlights include haute couture pieces from Atomic Bomb, 1998-99, featuring dramatic mushroom cloud-like cushioned necklines, and Russian Doll, 1999-2000, in which a single model was painstakingly dressed by the designers themselves, in front of a catwalk audience, in 10 independent layers.
The centrepiece of the exhibition is a giant two-storey “doll’s house”, that features scaled-down versions of Viktor & Rolf’s key fashion designs.
On a retail note, for the duration of the exhibition (18 June-21 September), the designers have transformed the Barbican Art Gallery Shop into The House of Viktor & Rolf Shop, where a range of Viktor & Rolf-designed accessories, clothes, books, curiosities and the Limited Edition Barbican 2008 Flowerbomb and Antidote fragrances will be offered for sale.
“We’re happy to be able to share our home with you; welcome to our House,” declared Viktor Horsting, prior to the preview. “And enjoy your stay,” added Rolf Snoeren, in typically succinct style.
Managing Director for Viktor & Rolf Parfums Ladan Lari paid tribute to the design talents of the duo, commenting: “We are very honoured to have the privilege of this private preview, in the company of the designers themselves. This retrospective…perfectly demonstrates how after 15 years Viktor & Rolf have enchanted the fashion world, how they have taken it by storm with their creativity and very special signature blend of audacity and elegance.”
L’Oréal’s Patricia Turck Pacquelier and Viktor Horsting address journalists during a classically subversive Flowerbomb- and Antidote-themed tea at the Holland Park Orangery She continued: “They have also communicated their vision of the world without any compromise…this is really rare in fashion today. Now they want to show us that fashion is not only multi-faceted, it is multi-layered, and that fashion designers can express themselves in a bigger and wider way than just fashion.
“After 15 years of creation, they have decided to go back to their arty roots, and instead of showing a simple retrospective, they have transformed this museum show into a real art performance, [showcasing] their signature pieces and their key moments in fashion. Welcome to this fashion moment of pure enchantment, and enjoy the visit.”
Taking tea, à la Viktor & Rolf
Following the exhibition preview, L’Oréal’s guests were transported (in Viktor & Rolf branded taxis) to the Orangery in Holland Park, to take tea with the designers.
In classical English style, a string quartet provided the musical backdrop, and elegant tables laid with fine white linen groaned under the weight of breathtaking floral bouquets.
However, in true subversive Viktor & Rolf style, the afternoon tea that was served was anything but traditional. Guests were treated to two tasting menus, each inspired by the Flowerbomb and Antidote fragrances.
On the former menu, the dishes on offer included Apricot Foam and Rose Foam with Pink Peppercorn Wafer, and Micro Cress and Baby Leaf Salad with Rose Bud Vinaigrette.
The Limited Edition Barbican 2008 versions of Viktor & Rolf’s Antidote and Flowerbomb fragrances On the latter, guests sampled Wood Roasted Quail with Tonka Bean and Citrus Fruit with Grapefruit Reduction. Both menus were concluded with customised macaroons created by famous French pastry chef Pierre Hermé.
During a brief presentation, L’Oréal Produits de Luxe International Prestige & Collections President Patricia Turck Pacquelier declared herself “blown away” by the brilliance of the Viktor & Rolf retrospective.
“I have never before seen such an exhibition,” she commented, “It delivers such a strong statement. In 15 years, we can see the evolution of the brand, with each collection telling a different story.”
Horsting in turn paid tribute to L’Oréal, saying what a great pleasure it had been to work with the group to create the Viktor & Rolf fragrances. He also promised that the retrospective did not signify a farewell to fashion.
“Somebody said yesterday that we were too young to hold a retrospective,” he explained. “And if a retrospective were to mean goodbye, then I would agree.”
He continued: “But that is not the case; indeed, we intend to have many more retrospectives; every five years if possible.”
Bottling the Barbican effect
Both the Flowerbomb women’s fragrance and the men’s Antidote scent have been updated for Viktor & Rolf’s fashion retrospective.
“Viktor & Rolf is not about launching a new fragrance every year. We are focusing on new ways of communicating and connecting with our customer. There is still plenty for us to do with Flowerbomb and Antidote.”Marketing Director Prestige & Collections Travel Retail Europe, Middle East & Africa, Arnaud Champenois The Flowerbomb Dolls Limited Edition Barbican 2008 50ml features revamped packaging. The grenade-shaped bottle is more prism-like, and decorated with iconic couture images from the exhibition.
Each of the 2,000 bottles bears an individual number and is signed by the designers.
The Antidote Collection Limited Edition Barbican 2008 75ml, also inspired by the retrospective, is said to embody the iconic silhouette of the two designers, and is presented as an autobiography, “written in fragrance and signed by Viktor & Rolf”.
Only 1,000 bottles are available, each of which is engraved and numbered.
Marketing Director Prestige & Collections Travel Retail Europe, Middle East & Africa Arnaud Champenois explained: “The distribution for these limited editions of Flowerbomb and Antidote is very selective – we are talking around 15 doors worldwide.”
And while travel retail is not on this occasion among them, Champenois emphasised how important the channel was to the L’Oréal group in general, and for Viktor & Rolf in particular, singling out World Duty Free and Kappé International as key retail partners.
“What is important is that Viktor & Rolf is not about launching a new fragrance every year,” he explained. “We are focusing on new ways of communicating and connecting with our customer, who is very loyal to the brand. There is still plenty for us to do with Flowerbomb and Antidote.”
There is plenty for L’Oréal to do in every sense, as the group gears up for a busy second half. “Viktor & Rolf aside, we have a number of major new launches coming soon, across our brand portfolio,” Champenois confirmed.
“These include Notorious from Ralph Lauren, Diamonds for Men from Emporio Armani, Amor Amor Tentation from Cacharel, Magnifique from Lancôme and Diesel Fuel for Life Unlimited For Women Only.”
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