Estée Lauder has updated its Advanced Night Repair treatment, first launched over 30 years ago, with a new Synchronized Recovery Complex II version. It is being rolled out to travel retail worldwide this month.
Lauder introduced the concept of night-time repair to the anti-ageing category in 1982, when Night Repair – as it was then known – revolutionised the segment. The formula, presented in the now-iconic “little brown bottle” with the apothecary dropper, rapidly became one of the best-performing skincare products in Estée Lauder history.
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Now the brand has harnessed new research in the fields of DNA and Chronobiology to deliver what it describes as its most comprehensive and most advanced serum ever. The product is claimed to slow down the look of premature ageing, dramatically reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles and significantly improving the appearance of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone. In consumer tests, 83% of women felt their skin looked healthier, with a fresher, more rested look.
The new formulation evolved from a discovery related to skin cells’ Catabolysis – a critical night-time cellular repair process. This natural purification process peaks in cells at night and is pivotal to the skin’s natural repair mechanism.
Catabolysis activity helps skin cells eliminate internal debris that can cause cellular damage, which in turn optimises cellular performance and helps increase skin’s overall repair. Considered a critical ageing pathway, the efficiency of the Catabolysis repair process declines with age and becomes de-synchronised from the night.
To help counter this, Estée Lauder has introduced new ChronoluxCBâ„¢ Technology, which is said to take advantage of the restorative power of night by combining potent purifying and synchronising technologies to maximise nightly renewal of the look of skin.
There are two key elements: Catabolysis Technology (Purifying) and Chronoluxâ„¢ Technology (Synchronizing). The former is described as a complex of active ingredients, including an algae extract and a yeast extract, that is proven to support skin cells’ natural Catabolysis activity. With cellular performance optimised, skin cells perform more efficiently and effectively and skin’s overall natural nightly renewal increases. The latter features patented clock gene technology that helps support the natural synchronisation of the skin’s night-time renewal process, so that skin renews itself at exactly the right time.
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The Estée Lauder Companies Executive Director of Skin Biology, Research & Development Dr Nadine Pernodet PhD: “Our research in Epigenetics has been key to the development of our new products.” |
Other key ingredients include anti-pollution technology, to counter damage caused by environmental aggressors such as ozone, pollution and UV rays; anti-oxidants to neutralise free radicals; and hyaluronic acid for optimal hydration.
Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II is suitable for all skin types and is proven to be effective for all ethnicities. Estée Lauder has conducted extensive clinical, sensory and safety testing on over 1,000 women around the world, including Caucasian, Black, Indian, Hispanic, Japanese, Chinese and Korean women. The formula is oil- and fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, dermatologist- and ophthalmologist-tested.
The Moodie Report: What are the key objectives of this Advanced Night Repair update? Who is the target consumer? Has this changed in any way, especially given the extensive testing on all ethnicities/skin types?
The Estée Lauder Companies Executive Director of Skin Biology, Research & Development Dr Nadine Pernodet PhD: As a leader in DNA research and Chronobiology in the field of cosmetic skin science, we are at the forefront of discoveries in these areas. And we had a major finding of a critical night-time repair process – Catabolysis – in skin cells. We used this knowledge to build new Advanced Night Repair into our most comprehensive serum. We added new technology to support skin cells’ natural night-time purification process (Catabolysis) which is vital to younger-looking skin. The target consumer is women of all ages and all ethnicities, who are concerned with the appearance of signs of visible aging.
What are the key differences vis-a-vis the previous version?
The difference between the two products is the discovery of a new natural repair mechanism in skin cells (Catabolysis), which is now supported by our new, exclusive ChronoluxCBâ„¢ Technology. To maximise skin’s natural renewal we are now also addressing skin cells’ natural purification.
Advanced Night Repair is such an iconic product, loved by many exactly as it is. Does updating it therefore carry an element of risk?
Estée Lauder’s philosophy is to always deliver the best to women. When there is a scientific breakthrough that will improve our iconic product, it is our obligation to the consumer to introduce this.
What is the message, in scientific terms, to those consumers who still believe specific night creams to be unnecessary?
Night-time has been scientifically proven to be the best time for skin to get optimal repair. Now add to that our most recent research that shows lack of sleep impacts skin function and appearance and I think we have a powerful message for women. Night-time is the right time to renew the look of skin and Advanced Night Repair is the perfect solution.
In your opinion, what have been the key developments/discoveries within skincare technology in recent years?
Our research in Epigenetics has been key to the development of our new products, and the discovery of the new Catabolysis repair mechanism has been a major discovery.
Do you think consumers have unrealistic expectations today of what a cream can do, particularly in comparison with certain surgical and non-surgical procedures?
I think women want to see real results and that is why the cosmetic industry and research have been very involved in the latest scientific breakthroughs.
Where are the limits, in terms of turning back the clock, with topicals?
As a scientist, I have always been encouraged to think big, so I believe there is no limit.
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