Estée Lauder reinvents Pure Color with Tom Pecheux

INTERNATIONAL. Earlier this week at a major launch event in Paris, Estée Lauder unveiled its revamped Pure Color cosmetics collection, created in partnership with Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux, who was appointed last November to help rejuvenate the brand. The launch also showcased the limited-edition Blue Dahlia and Pure Color Night Collections.

The high-profile event was attended by Pecheux and global Lauder faces Hilary Rhoda and Constance Jablonski. Also in attendance were Estée Lauder Companies Executive Chairman William P. Lauder; Estée Lauder Senior Vice President, Creative Director, Aerin Lauder; Estée Lauder Global Brand President Jane Hertzmark Hudis; and various senior international executives.

The two-day event kicked off in style with a well-attended Champagne reception in honour of Pecheux, at the Espace Pierre Premier. This was followed by a more intimate dinner to honour Pecheux, Rhoda and Jablonski at Caviar Kaspia.

“We are in an iconic restaurant, in an iconic building, serving the most iconic food in the world – what a perfect place to celebrate our partnership with Tom,” declared Hudis.

“He is an amazing guy, who really understands women, and he is, in partnership with Aerin Lauder, creating the future of the brand. Both are creative visionaries – what you see tonight is the future of Estée Lauder. And that future is modern, energetic, exciting, fashionable and relevant.”

William Lauder took the opportunity to pay tribute to the brand’s international team, praising them for their efforts this year. “I feel I should be clapping all of you, for the spectacular job you guys have done,” he noted, in reference to the strong sales growth from international businesses, including travel retail, which helped drive the group’s fiscal third quarter net sales.

“I am really proud of what you have achieved. [Our latest results] are a credit to the hard work and dedication of you and your teams”¦and I want to thank you all.”

A COLOURFUL NEW VISION
Pecheux’s new Pure Color Collection of eye shadows features a wide selection of high-impact shades, complete with long-lasting pigments and fade-resistant formulas. Four dynamic finishes are available: matte, satin, luminous and metallic.

Exclusive True VisionTM Technology incorporates intense, highly pigmented shades for a saturated, colour-rich application, according to the brand, while a crystalline laminate polymer is said to intensify colour clarity and vibrancy in one easy stroke.

The new Pure Color eye shadows are presented in a gold, mirrored compact decorated with an oversized Estée Lauder cartouche. A sponge-mitt applicator is also included.

Complementing the new eye shadows is a new Pure Color Gloss collection from Pecheux, claimed to deliver lasting shine, maximum moisture and three multi-dimensional finishes.

Again, True VisionTM Technology is said to wrap pigments in a crystal-like coating to provide intense colour and shine. Six berry, red, nude and plum shades are available in shine, shimmer and sparkle finishes.

The glosses incorporate multi-functional humectants, plus vitamins C and E, to moisturise, soften and help protect lips. The lightweight formula is comfortable and non-sticky, and fragranced with a signature fig scent.

BLOOMING BEAUTIFUL
The limited-edition Blue Dahlia Pure Color Collection for Fall features smouldering eyes, shimmering lips and bold nails. Pecheux debuted the line backstage at the Derek Lam Autumn/Winter 2010 Fashion Show.

The complete make-up collection includes two distinct looks (Blue Dahlia and Surreal Violet), as well as two complimentary lip products that are said to create a “visionary, avant-garde look with a touch of whimsical glamour”.

Eyes take centre stage in hues of electric blue and vintage violet, while lips shimmer in subtle shades of pale pink and raspberry. Deep navy and iridescent lilac nail polishes complete the look.

Key items include the Pure Color EyeShadow Palettes in Blue Dahlia and Surreal Violet. Each contains five shades presented in a golden, mirrored compact complete with oversized Estée Lauder cartouche. Single eye shadows, in four new shades (Twilight Rose, Sepia Sand, Enchanted Meadow and Emerald Star), will also be available.

The lip offer features Pure Color Gloss Sticks and Pure Color Glosses, in shades of raw pink and magenta, for a subdued lip look to balance strong eyes. A deeper berry shade (Midnight Bloom) delivers a stronger pop of colour.

A limited-edition trio, called Pure Color Night, is also available now in selected domestic doors in Paris. The line comprises a three-in-one Pure Color eye shadow in Naughty Black, a Pure Color Luminous Powder in Highlight and a Pure Color lip gloss in Kiss Me.

The products are presented in navy/violet packaging, in place of the traditional Lauder gold. For this sub-collection Jablonski, rather than Rhoda, features in the advertising visual.

MODEL BEHAVIOUR
Lauder face and model Hilary Rhoda is much more than just a pretty face. During a group interview to promote Tom Pecheux’s new Pure Color innovations, she reveals herself to be articulate, engaging, warm, witty – and mighty disciplined about what she does for a living.

First and foremost, though, she is totally complimentary about Pecheux. “I started working with Tom a few years ago when I started modelling,” she explains. “It is so nice that he is now here at Lauder and a familiar face to work with. Tom is so sweet and so easy to get along with. He is really talented and brings a whole new dimension to the Estée Lauder brand.”

Rhoda is equally enthusiastic about the new Pure Color products. “I just love the eye shadows,” she gushes. “The Palette is so rich with those shades of blue and grey and black; they really add depth and make the eyes pop. There’s a coral lip gloss I’ll be using a lot this summer too, I’m sure.”

Tom Pecheux with Lauder’s leading ladies: (l to r) Aerin Lauder, Constance Jablonski, Hilary Rhoda and Jane Hertzmark Hudis

Rhoda is generous enough to share a few insider beauty tips. “Pro make-up artists have shown me how to contour my cheekbones with highlighter,” she reveals, “and there’s a great trick Tom does with eye shadow. He starts with light colours then takes it darker at the outside to make the eye look really big.”

And her best bit of advice for mere mortals not blessed with supermodel looks? “I think that moisturising is really important, especially for young girls.” She laughs: “That’s what I my mom taught me, and starting young is really important in order to keep looking young.”

The must-have make-up products Rhoda says she can’t do without are Lauder’s vibrating TurboLash mascara, and one of the new Pure Color glosses in shade Nude Rose. “Mascara and gloss is pretty much all I wear during the day,” she shrugs. “For evenings I take it up a notch with Double Wear foundation and make my eyes a little darker.”

When asked what would be her three desert island essentials, she shoots back with a grin: “Well, I wouldn’t need bronzer, that’s for sure. I’d take a moisturiser with SPF, killing two birds with one stone. And Re-Nutriv Body Crème.”

Rhoda claims she is restrained when it comes to shopping, splashing out on classic, timeless pieces that can be worn season after season, such as the Lanvin outfit she is wearing for the interview. But – travel retail take note – she is rarely tempted to shop at airports or inflight.

“There are some good shops at airports, and I browse but never buy,” she replies apologetically. “I’m such a light packer to begin with, that anything extra is a no, as I try to stay as light as possible.”

In addition to being a global face for Estée Lauder, Rhoda is still a firm runway favourite, following her big break during the Paris Spring/Summer 2006 shows, when she was personally cast by Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière to walk in his show. But Rhoda remembers how tough it was when she first started out in modelling – and how the support and belief of her mother helped her stay positive.

“My mom was always there for me,” she declares. “She’s my manager now and still travels with me a lot. When I first started modelling, there was a lot of rejection. When I first did castings for the shows in New York it was no, no, no everywhere; then more nos for Milan; but then finally in Paris I did Balenciaga and everything went from there.

“So it was hard at first but I didn’t let the rejections get me down and my mom was a big part of that, helping me stay positive and determined. Eventually things happen and you just have to remember that if one person doesn’t like the way you look, sooner or later another person will.”

Tom Pecheux: “Make-up is not a tattoo. If you make a mistake, you can just take it off. It should be playful, and women shouldn’t be afraid to experiment.”

Now, of course, everyone seems to love the way Rhoda looks – and she freely admits she is disciplined about staying in shape. “I work out every day,” she acknowledges. “I have a trainer or do a class, and even when I travel I try to work out in hotel gyms. I do spin, I run in Central Park around the reservoir, and I make sure I eat well too.”

She adds: “But I was always active growing up; I did a lot of sport when I was younger, so exercise is natural to me and something I enjoy doing.”

Rhoda also appears to be vice-free in beauty terms. “I’m pretty good about wearing sunscreen”¦and at the end of the day I always take off my make-up too,” she grins. “But of course I haven’t always looked like this. When I was younger I wore braces for a long time, and in school I was always one of the tallest, with huge feet. None of the boys caught up in height until they were 14 or 15!”

In terms of role models, Rhoda cites Cyndi Crawford and Christy Turlington as her inspiration. “Christy actually works out in my gym and still looks amazing,” she notes. “Both of them have been around for so long and are still doing these amazing ad campaigns. They have had such great careers and that’s what I would like too.”

Rhoda declares herself happily settled in New York (she grew up in Maryland), and although well travelled she has yet to tick off Australia and the Maldives from her list of countries to visit.

The interview concludes on a somewhat giggly, girly note, when Rhoda is asked who she would like to look like if she were a man. “I think [the British actor] Clive Owen is a pretty good-looking guy – I like that rugged look.,” she replies.

And her secret celebrity crush? “Clive Owen again!” she laughs. “Probably because I just saw him in the film The Boys Are Back and he was amazing in it.”

THE NEW MAKE-UP MAESTRO
Estée Lauder Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux is droll, devoid of diva tendencies, and thoroughly entertaining to talk to.

A favourite of top photographers, stylists and fashion editors the world over for his sophisticated take on Parisian glamour, he is also a savvy choice for Lauder, given the brand’s ambition to strengthen its position within the colour category outside its native US.

Pecheux has been charged with bringing a new energy, style and fashion edge to the group’s flagship Estée Lauder brand. It’s a challenge he is clearly relishing – although he admits there is still much more to do.

“Before, there was a lot missing,” he explains. “The brand had already decided to change the packaging, and then they wanted to bring a flavour of fashion too, which is what I did.

“But when you look at fashion today, there is no longer just one point of view; there are many different designers and each has a different position. So I didn’t want to impose anything. I wanted to make a large proposal, with this iconic blue [the Blue Dahlia Collection], which I think works very well with the season’s clothes. But apart from that, you have gloss, nail polish, natural colours, bright colours, deep colours – everything! I wanted a mix.”

Pecheux admits to having two main goals. “Firstly, I want people to carry on saying how much their mothers and grandmothers like the brand, but I also want people to tell me their little sisters and their girlfriends like it too.

“I find the old brand a little bit stiff, so I want to shake it a little. And of course I want to bring much more of a fashion flavour.” He pauses in mock-horror: “That all sounds very pretentious in my mouth! I am not pushing down Estée Lauder to make me feel bigger and better. This is what the brand is asking me to do too. We have an agreement and that’s what we are both looking to achieve in the future.”

Both Pecheux and Lauder have certainly hit the ground running. The three-sku Pure Color Night collection is already on-shelf, albeit in limited distribution. Pecheux describes the project as a “surprise”.

“There was no big plan for this”¦it just happened one day in a meeting. Leonard Lauder said, “˜let’s do something’ – so we did. And there will be many other things like that, because that’s the challenge. It’s all very exciting.”

Pecheux is clearly proud of his creations, although he admits the technical side of the process can be daunting. “For me make-up is something very playful; I am not a chemist,” he explains. “The science involved is very sophisticated, and I did not study in this area.

“There is another element that is good and bad,” he continues, “and that is translating the vision. Say I decide I want a shade of royal blue. You could ask 200 people to come up with a royal blue and you will not get one definitive shade because everyone has different visions of the same colours. So that can be difficult, especially in this age of email communication.”

Pecheux adds: “But creating a product that you have in your mind, and being able to bring it to a stage where you can actually use it and apply it, is very, very exciting.”

Pecheux’s philosophy is that make-up shouldn’t be a mask. He describes how its main purpose is to enhance what is already there, to help someone be more confident and to feel, as opposed to just look, more beautiful.

“The best compliment is when someone says “˜now I look great’ and not “˜the make-up looks great’,” he explains. “It’s not the make-up that should stand out, but the overall look.”

And Pecheux is adamant that all colours and creeds can wear all shades of make-up – with a little canny adaptation. “When I create a look for a runway show, for example, I might have 30 girls to make up, who are all different. So whatever look I choose, it has to work for everyone, regardless of colouring. So you make small adjustments.”

He continues: “It’s the same with Blue Dahlia, for example. The blue shades can work for everyone, it’s all about the way you wear it.”

Pecheux claims it takes him, on average, a maximum of 45 minutes to create a new maquillage from start to finish. “It can be much faster, perhaps just 20 minutes,” he muses. “At the worst, three hours. It all depends on what you have to work with, versus the look you have to create.

“If the model’s skin is bad, for example, it’s much more difficult, especially if the job is for film, which you can’t retouch like print. I did a recent TV campaign where it took me10 minutes to do the eyes and lips, but two hours and 50 minutes every morning to work on the skin! If you have a perfect canvas it’s easy.”

Just like Rhoda, Pecheux found it tough initially to establish himself on the circuit. “I started doing make-up 26 years ago”¦ although the first five years were a huge disaster,” he cheerily admits. “In the beginning, I was begging for work, and my phone never rang.” Yet he never gave up.

“I love what I do, and I honestly can’t see myself doing anything else,” he beams. “I’m not saying it’s always easy. It’s often very hard work. You travel, you have jetlag, sometimes you have to work with very unpleasant people, you deal with strange conditions, you wake at 4am, you finish at 2am”¦there are all sorts of sacrifices. I could never keep a pet – I can barely a partner!” he exclaims.

“Sometimes I fantasise about giving up and retiring somewhere exotic, but I think I would be bored within two months. As long as I have my brain and my two hands, I will keep going.”

Pecheux describes the new Pure Color products as his “babies”, with the new Lip Glosses his favourite progeny. “It has to be the gloss,” he explains. “Why? It’s easy to apply; it’s transparent; it’s sexy; you don’t need any technique; it takes half a second to put on; you can keep it in your pocket; and you don’t even need a mirror to apply it.

“Make-up is not a tattoo,” Pecheux underlines. “If you make a mistake, you can just take it off. It should be playful, and women shouldn’t be afraid to experiment.

“So if the eye palette in Blue Dahlia is too intimidating, try just a blue mascara, or a blue eyeliner. The point is not to change your entire make-up from one day to another; it’s to update it. So keep most of what you have, but add a little blue in somewhere. It’s a suggestion, not an order.”

He continues: “I think my pleasure and duty in this role with Estée Lauder is to try to answer every demand, every request, and every desire of each woman in the world”¦and Blue Dahlia is for those women who want a little blue.”

There’s time for one last question before Pecheux departs. Is there anyone in the world, any face, he hasn’t yet made up, but would like to?

“Lady Gaga,” he replies without hesitation. “She asked me to do a video and a magazine cover just last week and I was unfortunately already booked on another job.”

Pecheux concludes with a grin: “Some of her looks are a little, shall we shall extravagant, but overall I think she is brilliant. Because she just goes for it – and that’s what I love, in life and in make-up.”