Introduction: Double-digit travel retail growth, led by a triple-digit increase in Asia Pacific, is supporting Thélios as it navigates a challenging climate in the Middle East. The eyewear specialist is building on that momentum through activations, exclusive products and a renewed focus on luxury service.
Speaking to The Moodie Davitt Report Brands Director Hannah Tan, Thélios Head of Global Travel Retail Alessandro Eucaliptus discusses the next phase of growth for the luxury eyewear group. He highlights the growing importance of eyewear activations, Fendi’s huge potential under Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri and Thélios’ wider mission to deliver luxury.
The Moodie Davitt Report: Can you give us an overview of how Thélios is performing in travel retail? Which regions and channels are driving growth?
Alessandro Eucaliptus: Our travel retail business is very solid. We are growing by double digits, despite being significantly affected by the conflict in the Middle East.
Asia Pacific is the leading region, with triple-digit growth offsetting the decline in the Middle East. We had an excellent first half in Asia Pacific and, even when combined with the losses in the Middle East, we are still up by double digits.
Little by little, we are also adding value in the Americas, which is beginning to develop in travel retail.
How are you strengthening the business in the Americas?
We are restructuring our Americas team. We have a new Vice President of Sales for LATAM & Travel Retail Rodrigo Castro Foulkes, who comes from Swarovski and knows the channel well. We are also hiring a new account manager dedicated to the Americas. We have projects coming up in Canada and in the cruise channel in the Caribbean.
We are also introducing our first permanent Dior back walls in the region, starting with Mexico City and São Paulo in late October, both with Avolta.
Fendi has a prominent presence on your stand this year. What makes it a priority for travel retail?
We have an ambitious plan for Fendi in which travel retail will be one of the key channels. I personally believe Fendi is one of the brands in our portfolio best suited to this channel, for several reasons.
First, the designs have commercial appeal while retaining the character of an elegant luxury brand. Second, we now have a well-balanced, clearly segmented price architecture. Third, we are really focusing on delivering Asian fit eyewear styles.
We are building on the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, with new construction and design. It is very classic and elegant. Fendi is investing in the category and trusts us. The intention is to keep sunglasses as a focus category.
What are other priority brands in the Thélios portfolio?
Celine is one of our primary brands in travel retail. Following the success of the Metal Triomphe last year, we are launching the new Mini Triomphe logo.
We have a lot of Celine styles with an Asian fit, as well as universal or international fits. We are seeing strong interest in these shapes, and so we are investing in delivering them.
Thélios introduced Bvlgari’s first travel retail-exclusive (TREX) style this year. How are you developing that offer?
For the first time at company level, we launched a global travel retail exclusive with Bvlgari, in a cat-eye shape.
Bvlgari is delivering excellent results in Asia Pacific. Now that we have established the brand, we are supporting it through partnerships and 360-degree activations, including an exclusive for Lunar New Year. We are going to repeat that in 2027 with another TREX in the Diva family, as part of the summer 2027 collection.
How does Loewe complement the wider portfolio?
With the new designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the brand is developing collections without simply mirroring the past, while differentiating the offer and linking accessories, including sunglasses, as closely as possible to the maison’s world. The brand continues to grow quickly, and we have a strong presence in the Iberian market.
What role do activations play in bringing your luxury eyewear portfolio to life?
This year, I think we delivered 70 seasonal activations.
Among the major high-profile promotions, we delivered a great Loewe activation with Avolta in Madrid. Loewe played with tomatoes two years ago, and this year it was artichokes. The activation ran for one month in May.
We are planning more activations in 2027 and are discussing a presence in Ibiza with Avolta.
For example, we are planning high-profile promotional activity for Vuarnet with Lagardère in Geneva this coming January, combining eyewear with apparel.
What is your distribution strategy for Barton Perreira?
Barton Perreira is our own brand. It is a Californian brand using Japanese acetate, with elegant designs and no prominent logos. Our strategy is not to distribute it everywhere, but to select locations where the right consumers are present.
Are you seeing more opportunities to connect eyewear with other categories?
I cannot reveal anything yet, but we are going to see more crossover between categories within the LVMH portfolio.
What is your outlook for Thélios and the wider luxury eyewear category in travel retail for the next year?
I am very positive about next year. I am seeing a lot of excitement from clients and many opportunities.
Premiumisation is now a key priority for airport authorities. We are meeting many airport authorities that want to understand the category better and are asking us to support their vision for its future development.
I always explain that 95% of our focus is on high-luxury products. We understand how to serve high-spending consumers and how that approach differs from a self-service lifestyle offer.
Our job is to deliver luxury. ✈
