Variety might be the spice of life, but it’s also a pre-requisite in terms of satisfying the different needs of the key Chinese traveller, and other emerging nationalities in Asia Pacific. As L’Oréal Luxe Travel Retail Asia Pacific Division Manager for Kiehl’s, Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein and Yves Saint Laurent, Luc Lanel’s remit illustrates perfectly the diversity of the L’Oréal portfolio – and its relevance to the many types of consumer in the region.
Kiehl’s made its travel retail debut at Hong Kong International Airport in May 2006. Seven years later, the brand is still booming. “Kiehl’s is a phenomenon in the region,” confirms Lanel. “It is still in relatively limited distribution – about 50 points of sale – nonetheless we should be among the top three skin care brands very soon. In terms of productivity per door the brand is a [leader] in the region”¦It punches well above its weight.”
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Kiehl’s – pictured here at Shanghai Airport Terminal 2 – has enjoyed phenomenal success in Asia Pacific travel retail since its Hong Kong debut in 2006 |
But L’Oréal is by no means desperate to extend its distribution. “We are quite picky in terms of where we open Kiehl’s, but ultimately the brand deserves that,” Lanel explains. “We have to have the space to express the brand universe, and replicate its New York apothecary heritage.
“Everything about Kiehl’s is so distinctive: the brickwork, the floor, the famous Mr Bones skeleton. It is unique. And when it’s well treated in a retail environment it really gives back in terms of business volume.”
L’Oréal is no doubt hoping it can duplicate this success with its Helena Rubinstein brand, now re-emerging after a period of revaluation and redevelopment.
“In the past year Helena Rubinstein has been redeveloped as the champion within our portfolio of premium anti-ageing skin care. It is ideal for the most demanding women in Asia, who have tried many things and are prepared to pay for the very best.“ |
Luc Lanel Travel Retail Asia Pacific Division Manager L’Oréal Luxe |
“The Rubinstein brand has gone through a very long story,” Lanel acknowledges. “In the past, it had a very strong footprint in North Asia, especially in Japan, where it was very important. In the past year it has been redeveloped as the champion within our portfolio of premium anti-ageing skin care.”
In addition to skin care, the brand is also recognised for its expertise within the foundation and mascara segments.
Lanel adds: “Our Chinese customers love the story of the brand; it’s very old with a fantastic heritage. We are complementing that with the introduction of more contemporary elements, such as new scientific partnerships, with organisations like leading cosmetic surgery establishment Clinic Montreux, headed by the famous Dr Pfulg.”
This alliance dovetails perfectly with Rubinstein’s key target market of consumers committed to beauty – and the fight to preserve it. “Helena Rubinstein is ideal for the most demanding women in Asia, who have tried many things; are perhaps familiar with plastic surgery; and are prepared to pay for the very best,” Lanel explains.
“In the past three to four years, it has been extremely successful in China under this new positioning. The distribution is still quite small but it is growing; in the Greater China region it is extremely dynamic. We are seeing good results. The brand is back on track.”
L’Oréal’s Biotherm brand has also undergone something of a transformation in recent years. “We are rolling out a new brand platform, which gives Biotherm a lot more substance,” Lanel confirms.
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Biotherm’s Blue Therapy line has strengthened the brand’s anti-ageing offer |
The “Beauty From The Deep” rebranding aims to highlight Biotherm’s connection with the underwater universe and its rich biodiversity – the inspiration for next-generation skin care.
“Biotherm is growing quickly and with strong momentum,” notes Lanel. “The new brand identity is helping to communicate what the brand offers: simple yet expert affordable products, with a strong scientific background.”
And male consumers are key. “In Asia Pacific travel retail the brand is completely balanced between male and female consumers, and it is the only brand which dedicates half its space to men,” Lanel reveals. “Consequently, we have a very strong relationship with men in the selective market. We see a strong acceleration and are gaining market share.”
He adds: “Where possible, at airports, we are further raising Biotherm’s profile by putting the brand in the traffic. For example at Incheon International we have created a simplified skin care bar which is proving very effective.”
L’Oréal has also simplified its Biotherm sets, and signed new, high-profile faces. Actor Eddie Peng is the face of Biotherm Homme in China; in South Korea the face is actor Won Bin.
On the feminine front, Biotherm’s new Blue Therapy franchise will allow it to tap into the huge demand for anti-ageing products. The line made its debut last September in travel retail doors in Europe, the Middle East, Africa and the Americas. It began rolling out in Asia Pacific in April/May, and will be launched in China in September.
Lastly, there is Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, which finally made its debut on the Chinese domestic market in May. The launch was celebrated with a high-profile gala event in Shanghai.
“We have completely rebuilt and repositioned YSL, with a direct focus on Asian markets,” Lanel reveals. “All the skin care lines have been reworked to accommodate specific Asian routines and textures. So have all the foundations – not only in terms of shades, but in terms of formula too. But we have made sure to retain YSL’s unique brand identity.”
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YSL’s Rouge Pur Couture Vernis À Lèvres is proving especially popular in North Asia and Korea |
The revamped brand is already present in various domestic and travel retail doors in the region. Lanel explains how different products are popular in different locations. “YSL is very interesting, because in every sub-region growth is being driven by a different category. In North Asia and Korea it’s Vernis À Lèvres; in Southeast Asia it’s Manifesto (and other fragrances); in Greater China it’s all about skin care and foundation, notably Le Teint Touche Éclat.”
Ahead of the Chinese domestic launch, travel retail has played a key role in showcasing YSL to mainland Chinese consumers. “In that respect, travel retail has been a key shop window for YSL,” acknowledges Lanel. “We have been using our doors in Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan to really express the brand, investing a lot in animations. We think the potential for YSL in China is huge.”
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